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ok, one of your problems is you have a 45 cranking amp battery where the standard ones are ~300. If your starter motor is even a little weak you are going to have problems.

what walmart battery is 4lb?? Part ## ?

failing to follow the direction shouldn't make it quit that quickly.. (unless you ran a 10 amp charger over night and boiled the water away..) Check the level? In any case, you have 30 days for a full exchange warranty. Go get a new one and give it to a coucher..

FWIW slow cure is the "actual" stuff (best strength). It really takes like a week to fully cure. The "fast" stuff still takes like 24 hrs. In either case be aware that with a caulk tube, whatever is left over you may as well throw away because it will harden in the tube no matter how you try to...

The starter will not drain the battery just sitting there. It is not connected at all unless your solenoid is bad (fix that first if thats the case..). I'd break out the amp meter and start looking for the drain.

Cool. I got nothing, I forgot the memory card for my still and only shot 2mins of video..

there must be more pics.. and videos ??

polyester doesn't really even bond that well to regular (poly) fiberglass. It is good if you are making a whole part (ie building a boat..) since it all cures at once. It is "ok" for cosmetic repair on fiberglass, but otherwise use epoxy regardless of what kind of hull you have.

you can put down a bunch of layers all at once. Just watch on vertical surfaces that it doesn't sag on you.

it is part #1 I was talking about, It is screwed and "glued" to the hull, and it needs to be an air tight seal. If in doubt pull it off and re seal with 5200.

strictly stock vs stock the pump size is not an issue IMO. The FX1 feels noticeably quicker and lighter.

A leak between pump and ski will do that. Make sure the metal part the pump seals against is itself bonded securely to the hull as well.

http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%20Electrical%20Supply/Heavy%20Wall%20Lugs/4%20AWG%20Heavy%20Wall%20Lug/ best to crimp instead of solder IMO..

get some power tools...!

Ive had good luck with these guys. http://shop.genuinedealz.com/

http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/20175&highlight=d-cut

just a couple of times now. It really made an improvement in chop, no more unintended subs(!). It is not porpoising on me either.. The only downside is it really slides out on tight turns.

That plate was already cracked and reinforced with aluminum plates + epoxy, which is the mess you can see in the last pic.

I couldn't find any pics of the fx1 plate cut, so I winged it. I thought it would be good to stop just short of the first rib and so ended up not quite a half circle (just freehanded till it looked right)

hello, anybody know if they are doing that marathon (or whatever it was) where they closed all the fricken roads? (Sunday last year, we never did figure out how to get there..)