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Kevlar is not good for this application. It does not bond well and soaks up water. Now its only used to keep broken parts together after a crash.

Its more in carb tune. All of our gas guzzlers are fourcycling when they are not making full power. Unfortunately thats the only way a big carb can deliver good response. Use a smaller carb with high pop-off for best range.

A 1.5 should be fine with a stock cylinder. If a 2.0 is used make sure to install at least a 95G spring, a 115G will clean up excessive sputtering around half throttle.

Our skis require max torque between 5000 and 7000 rpm. There is nothing that can beat a twostroke in that rpm range. Hydrospace did a good job with a very expensive turbo 800 but could never match throttle response.

I have tuned that exact setup, heres what I learned. The 6M6 case will tend to run richer than a 61x case for a given carb tune. A 120-125 pilot with a 65G spring and stock 1.5 needle should be rich enough for the low speed circuit. I would not use anything smaller than a 140 high speed jet and...

The YB-SC-A was claimed to be a 13-18 and is the only one to have. Early production props had less pitch than later ones. An early B is also good but later Bs and all C props are usually too much load.

If you are not sure about the pump load then use the long chamber.

There is no reason for a piped twostroke to be loud. I don't know if "Jetskiers" are attention starved or just A-holes, either way most are obnoxious.

1993-1995 sx/x2 ignitions will rev to 6900rpm. 1989-1992 rev limits were lower. On the water its unlikely to turn more than 6500 with a stock cylinder regardless of ignition or other mods.

Electrics have better power/weight over internal combustion but very little endurance. This is why they work so well for drag racers and little else.

I doubt youll find any new style 15* props. Old Skat 15s are very good but tend to vibrate out of the hole. Low speed vibration went away when cambered blades became the norm. Narrow hubs work better with low inlet pressures making more static/low speed thrust.

My experience tells me that a good cyl on a 6M6 makes more power than a stock cyl on a 62T case, even with giant carbs.

The older Skat props work great once you get moving. Newer narrow hub and swirl props will make more thrust as long as the pitch is correct. If you are using a zxi shat then life is a lot easier because because you can use 750 props cut or shimmed to fit.

Bore your 6m6 cases, use the stock carb, and have fun. The difference between a 6m6 and 61X case is no more than 1mph. Adjusting your pump load will make 10X the difference in performance.

The three areas that affect engine spool up the most are compression, ignition timing, and rotational mass. Compression and timing make the most improvement but increase minimum octane requirement greatly. A programable total loss ignition is the only mod that makes a difference that you can...

Full time high school dropout.

Hes going for his taser screaming "get out of the car". As to getting on the ski, Those 750s will sink way down in the back without tipping over. Practice sitting at the edge of the tray on your knees without the engine running. Once you get that down the rest is easy. If you need better thrust...

The only single intake that works well overall on the 750 is a PJS. It has smaller passages than stock and designed for a keihin. I have adapted a 46 to a stock manifold with mixed results. The jetting that gave best response was too lean for long WOT runs. The big mikuni on a stock manifold had...

An 18 degree prop? Try a 15-15.5.

Back to his original question: The size of 6M6 reeds are the last thing that you should be thinking about at this stage of your build. A good cylinder on a stock 6M6 case will run better than a stock cylinder on a 62T case, even with a pair of 46mm carbs.