61x flywheel question

Location
michigan
I've heard alot of differant things about lightened flywheels like aluminum ones break and its better to lighten the stock one? What's your guys thoughts on this. Like comparing a rad charging flywheel to a stock lightened one.
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
IMHO, a stock lightened flywheel isn't worth the $50-$100 dollars the mod costs.
I have tried stock vs lightened stock back to back and could not tell a noticeable difference.
Others may have differing opinions, I am just stating my personal observations.
 

Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
IMHO, a stock lightened flywheel isn't worth the $50-$100 dollars the mod costs.
I have tried stock vs lightened stock back to back and could not tell a noticeable difference.
Others may have differing opinions, I am just stating my personal observations.

I agree. I had a stock 750 flywheel lightened. It was done like how GroupK does theirs with about a half a pound taken off the outer perimeter. The next time I was riding, I continuously tried to convince myself there was a difference but truthfully there wasn't...or at least not enough for me to believe there was.

I've never used or ridden a ski with an aluminum charging flywheel but I'll swear by total loss as long as I can continue buying parts for it.

I've heard of aluminum flywheels breaking as well. I've also heard of brand new flywheel not producing a spark. I've heard of MSD enhancers going out, total loss going out, stock going out, etc. etc. You really just need to weigh the costs vs performance vs reliability. Nothing is perfect...especially when you don't take care of it.
 
Last edited:
Location
dfw
The three areas that affect engine spool up the most are compression, ignition timing, and rotational mass. Compression and timing make the most improvement but increase minimum octane requirement greatly. A programable total loss ignition is the only mod that makes a difference that you can really feel without raising your fuel requirements.
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
I ran a RAD lightweight before.
It wasn't that great.
Certainly not $600 worth of great.
 
I ran a RAD lightweight before.
It wasn't that great.
Certainly not $600 worth of great.

while i will agree with this, and wouldnt pay $600 for a flywheel, i hafta say that the aluminum f/w that harrison gave me a few years ago is a very noticable improvement on the bottom end. it was definitely FREE worth of great.

THANKS AGAIN, BK... and smooches:woot:
 
i noticed minor differences on my 760, i think its as always a combination of a lot of things to get to the final result...you might laugh but some people throw a pipe on or another prop and they dont notice any difference, with years of riding you become more sensitive , almost like a good car mechanic they will know immediatly whats wrong juts by takin a quick test drive.

Many riders here are very engine sensitive they for example know when the engine starts running/feeling hard that you are running low on gas etc.

I think its worth the money if its in combination with other modification to have a bigger end result...
 

Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
Many riders here are very engine sensitive they for example know when the engine starts running/feeling hard that you are running low on gas etc.

This can be good and bad. Useful when tuning and sucky when the air is funky or water choppy because then you start thinking something is wrong with your engine but can't find the problem.
 
Location
Ohio
It all adds up to noticeable.

But to this day the one bolt on that changed my riding more than anything has been the -3mm 13/16 prop as recommended by Dave at Impros. It was one of the last things I did a few years ago and WOW!
 
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