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A Skat 15 is on the low side of the spectrum but could be just right depending on your engine and nozzle diameter. For example, a 15 is great on a 650 with its stock 83mm nozzle regardless of modifications. It is also good for a high port 750sxi engine with a 76-83mm nozzle. If you have a low...

Gap your plugs at .022 and open the top carb screws 1/8 turn.

hmmmmm.

Its the 48mm carb. They have a way of slowly getting leaner at full throttle until one of the pistons melt. If long full throttle runs are important then use the stock 44. That 48 should only be for short bursts of WOT. I learned that the hard way along with many others, big singles are for...

How close to peak the high speed can be depends on how rich the pilot/pop-off is to begin with and how you work the throttle. Throttle blippers need to run richer pilot/pop-off than riders that are slower on the trigger. They (blippers) need to be fourcycling around 1/4 throttle but can tune...

Tachometers are very beneficial for long WOT tuning where they can save a piston. They are an absolute must for pump tuning and general testing. The pump tuning aspect is most important for freestyle where the correct pump load has a lot to do with thrust and response. Freestyle standups with...

It was an OLD 61X style Protec. It should be and probably is more restrictive than the bowl shape for a given size. In this case, with a short cone it felt the same so it wasnt tached. This engine has a high port cyl so it had no problem with a few more rpm.

Replaced an old protec nozzle straight bored to 85mm with an 800 nozzle bored to 85mm and felt the same.

Those domes will be very close to falling into the bore, plus they tend to be difficult to seal anyway. You will be a lot better off with a stock sxi or sxr head.

Anything that is spinning fast and moving fast likes 140 pumps. Strokers doing freestyle need bigger pumps.

They do work well as long as the prop is shallow and the pilot/pop-off is plenty rich. I dont like them because they are too light switch for me. They are the best for throttle blippers though.

We have less than 14psi to work with until water boils over the tops of the blades. Maintaining positive pressure is very difficult at low speeds. This is why smaller diameter 140 pumps work well on race boats and sitdowns. Larger diameter impellers with flatter blades do noticeably better from...

Since we're getting super technical here, why don't you just buy a weather proof Cannon plug. You should be able to get everything needed for around $300.

Look for a trailer plug that has a weather proof seal and wrap the joint with vinyl tape. I unwrapped mine after three years and it the connections were completely dry.

They were trying to get you to buy an expensive engine to go along with all those pump parts.

The problem was the load, it was too much for that otherwise strong 760. I was just illustrating how the tuning is far more important than the hype surrounding a part. And that the pros don't always know what will work for you.

Dont confuse Kawasaki and Yamaha setups. One of our local riders spent a lot of money on a new Hooker 10-16 and TBM for his superjet. The results were horrible, too much load. This setup was recommended by the "pros", That taught me that everyone is just selling a bill of goods. I did a lot...

The Superjet pump does not have the problems that Kawasaki has. A stock 144 pump with an 85mm nozzle, deep Worx grate, and an impeller pitched just right is hard to beat until the water get really rough.

All 650-701-760 bottom case halves are stamped 6M6. The difference in actual reed area between 650 and 701 single carb is 10%. Dual carb 701-760s have 25% more reed area than a 650.

I have not examined all of the various cranks but have found some easy things to spot. The 650 superjet cranks have 6R7 cast on all four webs, rods, and have a thick wear collar on a hollow PTO shaft. 701 superjet cranks will have 6M6 cast on two webs (forgot which sides), rods that are machined...