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I run a single BJ 46 on T cases and love it. One complaint about fixed venturi carbs is that there really isn't a solid solution for running a stock OEM FA. I have tried the thrust innovations and now the wamiltons adapters. I got some more tweaking on the wamilton's adapter to see if I can get...

k just looked at my notes i can't tell whether I wrote 125 main or 135 main and 130 pilot dull silver 2.5 N&S I'm leaning more towards the 135 main.

why did you choose to go without foam?

I have a very similar setup. 46mm black jack 701 81.25mm 61x cylinder Ported by jetworks for surf riding MSD enhancer riva single conversion manifold V Force II reeds OEM FA b pipe with mod chamber 175 psi light flywheel I'm not 100% certain but I believe my carb setup is at the following...

no it should not as long as it is a true SJ pipe.

if it is a blaster red pipe the stinger/exit section of the pipe has to be cut and re welded back on b/c it faces the wrong direction.

crap, now looking at the pics, where i re located the breather hole, i think it is going to hit the gas tank. F! oh well i'll figure it out later.

got my new midshaft from dirtybird. thank you! to alleviate the gap between the front of the hood and the hood seal i built a little deal that extends down in front of the hood. totally ghetto but it works. the front hood seal lip has drooped over the years and would let a ton of water...

take advantage of the low conversion rate. I priced a single manifold a couple years ago and it was like $340 with shipping, you can now get one shipped for like $190, thats cheaper than a brand new RIVA conversion manifold.

When I ran my ski without re enforcement I did not need padding on my mod chamber. After re enforcement I put turf on the chamber before the first ride, so I don't know if the added fiberglass would have affected it. Upon last removal of the chamber the turf still looked intact/great, so I...

I don't think you have the correct instructions. I think you're suppose to have these http://www.factorypipe.com/media/instructions/yamaha/701SJ03.pdf

Done some stuff... Added a second cooling line. Pump alignment was a biatch. Something has warped over the years (most likely the hull where the pump mounts) and won't allow the drive shaft to side center (horizontal alignment) in the hole. Normally all you have to do is to align the pump...

thats what it looked like to me also... but if you really wanted to, maybe you could use some sealant (1211???) instead of o-rings?

ya, when i just built my trailer, even just purchasing galvanized, I spent like $100 in hardware alone.

Here is the hardware list: http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/12377 You're looking for M8x1.25. Stock is 30mm long, so if add the length of the keeper to the stock 30mm you should be good. If it is a little longer than you need, just pick up some extra washers to stack under the head of the bolt...

One time after three of four of us pulled the skis out of the water back onto the trailers, we're standing around and we start up one at a time and brap the water out of the exhaust system. After about the second or third ski this guy in a truck drives by and yells at the top of his lungs...

i'd try your first solution. non-girdled bottom and girdled top. top pieces seems thick enough. the girdled bolts are only torqued to 18ft anyways.

Also seem strange that your non-girlded domes don't have anti-rotation pins. Also, what is wrong with the bottom shell of the non removable girdled setup? wrong dome size?

doesn't look like it to me. as you said, I have have never seen that bottom girdled shell before. do the orings around the spark plug holes make a good seal when you fit together the non-girdled bottom and girdled top?

I'm no expert, but seems like it would work. Does the girdled top shell have an o-ring? That is about the only angle you didn't take a picture of.