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The USA is catching up fast.

Fuel draw tends to increase faster than airflow with carbs that are relatively large. I often find smaller engines requiring richer settings than larger ones. Pump load also effects fuel flow settings. This is why each installation is unique and MUST be tuned for best performance. It is not at...

Set the pump mounting distance for a 750-800 prop. The spline length will match the 900ZXI driveshaft.

The trick is to find a dual 38 61x manifold. I have found 61x manifolds for Keihins and Mukuni 44s but nothing for Mikuni 38s.

A 144 swap requires a lot more work to make it perform as it should. The Kawasaki swap is best for the amount of work involved.

You can do anything you want if you have enough money. Their politicos are cheaper to buy than ours.

A stock 62T cyl already has good power potential. You will need to get the pump load down and use a good pipe. A well ported 61X cyl can have better response and power than a stock 62T but not by all that much if you can tune.

Kawasaki switches are much more durable than Yamahas. I found several new Tigershark switches that are identical to Kawasakis on ebay for $30.

It just takes a few minutes as long as there is plenty of piston clearance. If the builder used minimum clearance then you need to make sure to tune rich and give it a couple of tanks before leaning it in and going WFO.

You need a 650 pump and a 900xzi shaft. Use modern 750-800 props. A custom bearing/seal holder will be needed for the mid housing and can be cut from an existing 650-900 carrier..

Try some sponsons that are square at the back if all you want is more lift up front.

Im surprised when I see the same people in the hobby after two years.

The 6m6 case mod doesnt need special machining, the performance is nearly identical to a 61x case.

Are they worth the money? What do they cost? I dont think they are at any price.

If your 650 is in good condition then just get a good 701 cylinder and pipe. The 650 case will need a simple clearance cut for the sleeves or find a cheap 61x case/manifold assy. The cylinder and pipe make power not carbs and cases. A 61x or modified CDI will be needed.

It takes a lot longer than you might think for the water to stop flowing out the exhaust. It also takea a long time to heat up the engine when the rev limiter is working. Stock thermosensor is set very low, I take my Kawasakis a lot hotter. I have no rust on any steel parts since I use this method.

TCW-3 oil is designed for corrosion protection. Make sure to hold it wide open until the thermo sensor kicks in, assuming that you still have a rev limiter and sensor. This will do more good than fogging.

Now you will need ear plugs.

Do those things come with a gimp? Just kidding, I have both in my dungeon.

Try not subbing it.