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A solid SS liner would go nice with a solid SS stator section. You will end up with massive corrosion problems when SS and aluminum parts are against each other. I dont see maintenance driven demand because jetskiers generally dont do any. I can see it as part of an expensive pump package for...

You definately want to feel seal drag. The seals are worn if its too easy to spin.

PJS made a cylinder for use with 650 crank/cases when the X2 class was popular. These cylinders were available in recent years BUT a big pin 750-800 is a more powerful/durable option. The PJS engines are best left to old guys reliving the "glory" days of Jetski racing.

Cap the impeller T/E pitch at 17 degrees max. Vary diameter to match the engine.

Mid shaft bearing.

There is probably nothing wrong except your expectations. Yes a 62T cyl will show lower cranking compression than an 61X. Your gauge may be off and/or the foot valve not working right. That extension that screws in the spark plug hole will also lower the reading. Plus every head MFG has a...

All 650-750-800 props will bolt on, the differences are in spacing and spline length. 650sx and 750ss/xi shafts are interchangeable, the only difference is spline length.

Do you want to use 650 props or 750 props? For off the shelf 650 props a Solas KA-SC-I is the best that I have found, it may need to be pitched down depending on your porting.

Nearly all epoxy will have some blush that needs to be removed before it can be painted. Even if the surface was free of blush it would be too slick for paint to adhere to very well. Let it fully cure and wash the area to be painted with a scotch-brite pad.

Freeride engines spend most of their life running overly rich while averaging very little power and heat. Common outboard oil has proven to work so whats the reasoning behind $50/gal oil. Road race 125s need it to finish an 8hr race, what does it do for us?

Urathane adhesive is what the factory uses.

You can always open the top screws for the first tank to safely see how everything is going. This will prevent any detonation and keep the piston from sticking if the fit is a little too tight.

140s are for high rpm engines.

Standup engines never have to deal with heat long enough to need a high temp detergent. Thats why outboard oil is generally best. A stock seadoo makes as much power as our hottest engines and runs WOT for the whole tank, they need an aircooled spec.

The term "ashless" and "low ash" refers to the type of detergent in the oil. Ashless is low temp and low ash is high temp. This mainly applies to cheap standardized oil. You can get high temp ashless if an expensive ester base is used.

The two main specs are TCW-3 for outboards and JASO for air cooled/high performance engines. TCW-3 is fine for freeride skis and have the best corrosion protection. Common DFI synthetic outboard oil is a high temp ashless formula, good stuff but smells horrible.

Generally the last number corresponds with the OD angle at the rear of the blade. The load tends to follow that number most closely. The first number is pulled from the MFGs a$$ because it never matches the front. When the ski is moving slow, props need a low leading edge angle so that water can...

The part throttle tune will act leaner with compression reduction, timing reduction, or steeper prop. Your prop may need to be adjusted to get back some low end.

You guys become fashion victims when you try to use a lifted pickup to actually haul anything. Try turning your lift kit upside down and make it a low rider. You would be able to launch without getting your feet wet.

Depends on how picky you are about tuning. Ideally any changes should get a high speed retune with a tach. Part throttle tune will be obvious.