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There is no point in a scoop grate unless it hangs below the hull contour, deeper the better.

Are your top screws closed with the 152.2s?

You are getting a whole 1.5 hous from a tank! Thats as good as it gets.

Why is that? Are they crooks?

R-Pot made some years ago but they were fiberglass with a layer of carbon for looks. A 100% carbon plate will be very expensive these days.

Bunks for standups are on 12 inch centers.

There was a stress riser (dent, scratch, or forging debris) that slowly grew from fatigue. My lab looks at this stuff with an electron microscope. You were just the unlucky recipient of a bad part. Still a win for Yamaha since it made it through warranty and they get to sell another crank.

Find out the venturi size. Im sure they can work but with a very rich pilot/popoff and restrictive flame arrestor. Remember that a carb needs to be just big enough not to restrict too much power. Any larger and you must compensate for lack of fuel draw. Stick with stock carbs until you have...

Why not split the difference and get 44s.

There was 80mm pistons and sleeves made for "mod" class 650s as well as even larger bore aftermarket cylinders. All that ended 20 years ago when the 750 was introduced, they are rare these days. If performance per dollar is important then get a good big-pin bottom end and choose a 750-800...

"Almost sunk my ski" Sounds like a David Crosby song.

I would rather install a single pump with individual restrictors. This way there is no chance of reverse flow and air would always purge quickly through the return line. Two pumps and single return restrictor can cause problems if one of the pumps are weaker than the other. Flow through the...

Find a Factory dry pipe, a good prop, and larger nozzle. Tune the carbs so pistons wont melt, thats about all that can be done power wise on pump gas. If you want to mess with compression, timing, or even open flame arrestors then buy a spare set of pistons first.

Now you know why non-gasket, O-ring heads are a poor choice for yamahas. There is a low spot around the leaking dome. The O-ring keeps water from getting to the steel liner, it will not hold combustion pressure.

Drilling the return is like cutting out the entire venturi. Bad idea but a lot of people do it.

If you suspect water under the tray then get a NO.50 drill and do some prospecting. A small cheap diaphragm air compressor will vacuum out all the moisture over a few days.

Be specific about your problem, "unstable" covers a lot of ground.

Tighten the front bolts and use the mid shaft to determine the pumps neutral angle. Shim the nozzle mounts to maintain this angle. There may be some extra clearance around the nozzle so always loosen the four through bolts to see if it will slide up to meet the hull without shimming.

They must melt away in order to do any good. I have never seen one melted at all, so they arent doing much if anything.

An exhaust leak will mess up the carb tune really bad. I had to reseal my S/N waterbox and use RTV on all exhaust hoses to finally fix the leaks. Then I had to retune the carb since I had it perfect with the leak.