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Stock Yamaha hoses are not reinforced and can be heated and stretched.

You are going to have to power tune the top screws to see where they end up and change the mains if needed. Do you want part throttle to be clean or responsive?, its hard to get a lot of both. I bet you could lower the popoff one notch, powertune the top screw and be very close.

The rear seal needs to get lube from somewhere or it will burn up. Some engine oil will get past the first seal and eventually make its way out the rear. Adding some grease to the gap just fills the pipeline. Kawasaki has been doing it for a long time.

Maybe one of those 220HP 650 engines.

Black moly grease is always best for splines. The splines must be perfectly clean in order for any of it to matter. If any of the sand that is always in the cavity gets on the splines during installation then budget for a new drive and mid shaft next year.

A 2.0N/S will provide the full range of useable popoff while providing no chance of running dry with a single carb.

What year are they? It could be a very good deal if in good condition, but they could also need a lot of $$$ and work to get them in shape. The owner wont tell you if they were sitting around full of water before they gottem runnin to sell.

The last time I had one that fourcycled uncontrollably had the arm bent too high so that the diaphragm bottomed against the cover. There is not much room so the arm needs to be flat. Your current pilot/popoff should provide very clean running below the pipe.

Yes, set idle rpm with the stop then turn the bottom screw to find peak rpm. Open the screw until the engine slows down, often around 1/4 turn, this will be your perfect idle mixture. Same for the top screw except it is tuned at full throttle. You can run at peak rpm as long as the fuel can...

Set the low needle at idle, rich of peak. Open the top needle 2 turns and lean it in.

You need to understand that this site is a sub genre of standup PWC, which is a small group to begin with. The Superjet is better suited for what people here want to do. Its more difficult to get low speed thrust and throttle response from a Kawasaki. Those two things are a big deal when you are...

Get a good prop and tune everything to perfection. Thats about all you can do without burning race gas.

Try it. You will be going from 76mm to 83mm. The 750sx nozzles are 80mm which may be a better match for the stock SXI prop, try both they're dirt cheap. The 650 nozzle also has a shorter arm for more steering throw. Make sure the steer nozzle doesn't bottom before the handlebar stop hits or...

Basically all you need is a 750 engine. Keep searching for information on details, people have been doing this mod since 1992.

Cant make anything better without starting a war, looks like he's at least trying.

Its easier with a full tank. Years ago I could do them on my first 650sx, then I lost 25lbs and couldnt get the nose to go under.

My 11-16 is stock, the numbers dont often mean much between brands. I do know that your high port cyl with stock pipe and 76mm nozzle need a very shallow prop. A bigger nozzle will noticeably improve thrust and lighten the pump load. Either one of your choices will be fine but get a 750sx and...

Whats your idea of "freestyle"? A very small single carb and stock pipe is best for hood tricks.

I have a concord 11-16 in my hand and it is shallower than any 9-17 that I have seen, probably ideal with a 76mm nozzle. The 12-18 would be a good choice as long as you used a larger nozzle from a 650sx and could bend the blades if necessary.

If you want to go fast for cheap then install an 1100. If you want more thrust a larger pump is needed too.