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The bottom screw is for low idle only. Pilots around 1/4 throttle and the main/top screw is for full throttle. The pop-off will affect mainly the lower settings.

The plastic ones are fine. A metal one bored to 85 is much better for thrust.

Lower port timing = better throttle response = less power = less thrust as well. Just make sure NOT to over prop it and then only fan the throttle 5 times a second instead of 15.

The low port SXR cylinder is more responsive and more forgiving to over propping than an SXI. I think a stock SXR cyl with a dry pipe has response/power equal to expensive BB Yamahas with B-pipes. The 750cyls are better for top speed and 800cyls for throttle blipping.

They will go off when a 20 year old thermostat finally sticks closed.

Your smoke concerns make no sense. It its not steam then its just smoke from the oil burning, its what they do. Second, how is a cracked anything going to make white smoke if there is no water in it???? Use your made up concerns to joo the dumb seller into taking less and then go have fun.

The temp sensor will not be a problem and is desirable if the head will accept it. Its a convenient way to know when to stop dry revving on the trailer. Most people foolishly remove them along with their rev limiters for whatever reason. There must be some conventional wisdom among jetskiers...

Its an overhauled crank, question is who did it?

A thin stainless gasket would also work and have the advantage of directing water around the cylinders.

Time for new seals and bearings.

Just replace that pressure relief valve with an .125" restrictor. And get a stock box!

The outside seal wears faster than the inner. Put a little grease between them to keep the inner seal wet. The idea is to keep water out of the bearing.

Its even more frustrating for an engine builder to see his engine (that he sold to someone with more dollars than sense) show up a week later with burned pistons.

Dont get too wild with timing, its easy to burn a piston with pump gas. Mark the flywheel and verify timing with a light. Start at 16 degrees until the carbs are tuned for full speed. Dales ignition has little retard and 750s have a tight squish so you cant use the numbers that are commonly...

You want to keep the water out. Make sure to put some grease in between the seals.

These are very good but a little too much load for best thrust. Bend the rear of the blades up 2mm for better thrust.

Splash magazine tested one of those on a Seadoo XP in 1993 or 1994.

The Sizzler is a good pipe. Make sure to match the manifold to the cylinder and use an OEM Kawasaki 650 bushing. Power wise it goes 48mph at 6860rpm on a 61X/61X @701CC, cyl mildly ported.

There is usually a lot of space even when the shaft is placed correctly.

If you are having problems with galvanic corrosion then the easiest answer is to seal out the electrolyte.