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Note peak smooth water RPM and throttle response, shoot for 7000RPM. An out of the box Concord 13/17 with stock nozzle is too much for anything less than a low port 771. Raise the trailing edge to 1.3"-1.4". from the blade above and bore the nozzle. It will feel like adding 10HP. Some port work...

It is not going to "make it rip" by itself, in fact other mods will do much more for performance. The Wetjet manifold is bigger and the only other single manifold available so it gets a lot of attention.

That cylinder deck needs to be resurfaced to seal without an OEM style gasket.

They do have a fine screen that snaps over the N/S. Check for debris behind it.

Every impeller Solas made for the Kawasaki 650 is on the high side, the older round nose hub is about right out of the box. The newer pointy hub needs to be repitched. An 8-16, 9-17 Skattrak will work without modification as will a straight 15.

Its mostly about impressing others. A modified OEM hull may have the correct dimentions but will be relatively heavy and weak.

They dont do much for noise reduction, find a suitable waterbox. Somebody should make a good muffler that replaces the fixed exit tube this would help all of the too noisy A/M boxes out there.

A complete OEM sxi/sxr intake from 1996 up is very good, keep the stock flame arrestor too. As far as singles, an aftermarket keihin 42 on the stock manifold will work better than the stock 40. A mikuni SBN 44 is also fine and as large as I would go if there was a lot of high speed running. An...

NGK numbers their plugs with lower # being hotter. Generally #8 is ideal for watercraft, If your fuel/oil tends to foul plugs then use #7.

The tray will crack when you land big air. Look for cracks around the hood cutout often. Repair them quickly because they will grow. 650sx are very light weight and not suited for side landings. Pad the tray and get some hold downs, bad landings can be crippling.

Generally speaking, all of these hulls are shorter and fatter than a FX1/550. You can overcome being too short with a shorter pole or a little down trim on the nozzle. Watch out for a completely rockered bottom, this is makes flatwater backflips easy but makes the hull porpoise at higher speeds...

I have used stock 650 waterboxes with 750s. If you are worried then use an A/M 650 box. The popular method of drilling stock boxes wont do much to relieve pressure since the standoff tube almost touches the end cap.

That wont be happening with a single.

As far as I can tell, a Hooker 9/15 is a repitched 10/16.

It is a nice way to catalog parts. We need good test data in order to know what actually works.

Use your 10/16 hooker with a bored nozzle first. If it is still slow to hit, raise the trailing edges .1 inch.

The cheapest way out is finding an old Protec and boring it to 86mm. It will make better low speed thrust if not under propped to begin with. No trim option though.

Powerfactor is a short (high rpm) pipe. Small engines struggle to overcome the increasing pump load before the pipe starts working. Making it respond well on small engines will take some tuning skill and race gas.

I once made the lake cry.

A fiberglass unit would be a much cheaper way to make small quantities. I made a mandrel that is 92+mm for a 155 pump. It is an inch longer with shallower taper. The mount is a simple folded flat that goes around the entire part and can be bonded on wherever it needs to be. The gimbal ring is...