My experience is mainly with smaller engines (650-771) and sbn 38, 44, and 46. All my combos were leaned until response was lost and richened until restored with the top screw tuned just rich of peak rpm. This is what I found, OEM 38s with stock flame arrestor can be tuned very clean at part...
Use a quality bearing, make sure it is a C3 because of the tight fit. Install the front bearing with a mandrel seated to the outer race only, then the shaft and rear bearing. Use extra care with the front, the rear is not loaded as much.
You could use a pair of standard SBN46s as long as the engine turns over 7000 rpm, even then part throttle will need to be richer than it would with a pair of 44s. Some of the new Novis have a 48mm plate with much of the venturi intact so they would be best "big" aftermarket carb for smaller...
An uncut Coffmans has the best low rpm response. Factory Pipe can be as good and make a little more power but are generally more difficult and expensive to find. A Westcoast needs a lower pitched impeller.
The industry should have started with a 66E case. Instead they chose a poor rout to maintain compatibility with existing parts. Few customers ever asked for a properly designed engine, only a bigger one.
The last year for 650 standup was 1993. The X2 went to 1995 and the TS to 1996. I never found any difference in hulls between 87-93, engines got small upgrades in 89 and 91. They are a more fun with lots of power.
That depends on how high the ports were cut. You need to get the pump load down first, it may have acceptable response. It take a lot of $$$ to overcome an over loaded pump.
The fast is for thin laminates less than 1/4 inch, which is mostly what we do. Depending on temperature, it will exotherm around 1/4" or thicker. The slow is for thick castings, it behaves normally in large masses but takes forever in small ones.
I much prefer customers that write me blank checks and say get to it whenever. I never found transfer angles to be a deal breaker but exhaust port height can be. I can get complete manufacturing drawings, material specifications, and performance specs for a Boeing airliner but these little toys...
A 140mm pump needs more rpm and is more limited on capacity than one of larger diameter. Basically you need over 7500 for 140mm. A larger, slower turning engine needs a larger pump. The inlet is important, racers need long shallow inlets, freestyle needs shorter and wider ones.
The splines should be perfectly clean and greased. The seal usually needs some sealant or glue to insure perfect sealing. This area is usually ignored because splines never completely fail. With care and maintenance splines will stay in like new condition. Otherwise they get clanky much faster.
It is actually more accurate to use a simple piston stop and split the difference. If you have a dial indicator mark the flywheel .1" either side and split the difference for TDC.
My wild assed guess is that your bottom screws are too rich, pilots too lean and the main/top screws way too lean. Go ride it, listen to the exhaust at 1/4 throttle for the pilots and power tune the top screws.
You must be standing at the rear edge of a long hull to get the nose up, or have a trim system. I find footholds to be great at slow speeds and uncomfortable at high speeds. They are the best for nose stabs and going upside down. If you dont do these things install full length slots. They are...
You can dry out a stock box without adding much noise, most aftermarket boxes are designed to be louder and nothing else. It has been well studied, a louder vehicle always feels faster than a quieter one. Without instrumentation, perception is all we have. Plus most people want attention...
Not really, the stock Kawasaki pipe has some tuning effect where the Superjet pipe has none. A stock superjet pipe may be better for hood tricks since there is no power surge. It makes linear power with less peak thrust compared to an aftermarket tined pipe. If all you need is 500 lbs of thrust...
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