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The 6205 is a very poor choice for axial loading in the first place. If a C3-C4 became rough when installed then the fit is indeed too tight. If you installed a standard clearance bearing, well, what did you expect?

It will take more than a new O-ring to correct the problem. Your cylinder deck and head needs to be lapped flat.

The Coffmans pipe has a longer tuned length than all of the others. This makes it work well with any combination of parts. The Kawasaki 650 is very critical to tuning, especially the pump load. The FPP will make a little more power, about 100rpm more than a Coffmans. Missing any other tuning...

Were you having problems with C3 and C4 fits. I would expect a standard clearance bearing to fail in these pumps. The big engine guys should be turning their shafts to accept double row bearings like the early OEM 155 pumps used. Even better try a pair of opposed spindle bearings.

That 25 year old rusty crank finally lost a bearing retainer.

That is the highest power/rpm arrangement. If you develop a hesitation, crack the mid or top screw.

Wow, I changed to a stubby cone at the lake after taking RPM and GPS readings with a stock one. I could not feel or measure any difference.

I had a new set of Wisecos that stayed shiny for three rides with the jetting fairly clean at part throttle and a few RPM rich of peak at full throttle. After a 5 min full throttle run across the lake the centers turned brown. So what did piston wash tell me? Not a damn thing, I tuned the carbs...

Make sure to install the front bearing with a mandrel and press, you cant push them in with the shaft. Also use a C3 bearing.

You can get an old Skattrak 8-16 or 9-17. A modified 750-800 impeller is the best performance option. Look for any aftermarket fiberglass reeds if you cant get them from Kawasaki for a decent price.

Look for fraying around the edges of the fiberglass petals. They tend to last forever with the stock ignition rev limit. That impeller is good but needs to be pitched down for best acceleration.

Its the lack of trapped volume that hurts a stock bore 66E. By lowering the cyl 2MM, a little power was added below the pipe. Peak power and rpm was lowered as a compromise. This is probably a good thing for throttle blippers but it defeats the advantage of using a 66E. The best solution is...

Dont worry about the compression numbers as long as they are close between cylinders, it may have a thick fiber gasket or a ported cylinder. You basically have a decent hull. Check the pump, good housings are $50-100. The 87 engine had no lock rings on the crank so upgrade after it dies...

You have an old ski, time for some maintenance. Pull and clean the tank, flush the lines and clean/install a carb kit. Make sure to replace the O-ring on the needle/seat and change the stock 75 pilot jet to an 80.

A pair of 44s will make the pipe hit a little harder. They will require a richer pilot/popoff so expect around 15% higher fuel flow. The main circuit jetting can vary greatly so do not blindly use someone elses specs. I have a high port 701 that needed 140 mains with the top screws 1/2 turn out.

There is more an issue of distribution over quantity. Water circulation within the cylinder is less efficient without a head gasket.

No standard, yes meaningless. They wont provide a load factor compared to stock which is the most universal standard.

If it was cheap and easy then it wouldnt be cool and nobody would be trying to do it.

We ran stock milled heads at 170-180psi on 50mph skis for over a decade with no cylinder cracking. These skis also used stock single line cooling. Newer castings are visibly rougher than early ones and most people are running more timing and compression than ever on pump gas. An ADA girdled...

Both cases were stock, I wanted to get an accurate comparison. I used a complete 760 case/carb rejetted for my 81mm cylinder. It runs great but was not the best bang for the buck. Maybe for a larger top end.