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cut it open, open the holes up and weld it back together, then you have an aftermarket waterbox for a couple hours of time.

got most of the bottom glassing done on saturday and did some riding sunday. Glassed the pump cavity, rear, nose piece 1708, rails 1708 and thin 5oz, keel reinforced with 1708. Still hope to foam and glass the nose yet, getting cold here. need to mount a pump, intermediate housing, and motor...

Sounds like a bad start.stop switch. the start stop switch has connectors by the ebox....black/white and Brown/red. Check the connector for corrosion. You can run it with black/white disconnected but you wont be able to turn the ski off, but it gives you to chance to diagnose it by seeing if...

let me get this straight. you buy a PHP motor, PHP comes to your place to help install it, brings beer, cooks multiple meals, lets you ride their pimped out skis, and tunes your ski to perfection? WOW sign me up. EDIT: and you back flip your ski on your first ever attempt! wholey crap

Got the nose piece mold done and the remaining 300sx nose cut out. The nose piece fits perfect with the custom middle finger! Not sure how or if I should trim the bottom hull depth down. Any ideas/suggestions? leave it? change it? any suggestions?

have you checked the fuel pickups in the tank for cracks? Did you pressure test the carbs? Are the o-rings on the H & L adjuster jets in good shape, no cracks? I agree with yamanube, put the motor on the work bench and spray it down with soapy water with the fly wheel off. sounds like you...

i dont think this will end up under a 125 lbs, but im good with that, the dang hood has to weigh 25 lbs! Just wanted to build something shorter than my -3 SJ that I can toss around. Have a ported 701 going in it, 144 pump, and if i like it, I may put the JM BB in er'. I have most of the parts...

Figured I’d do a build thread on this one. I bought this because I am to cheap to get into an aftermarket hull and I wanted a short play ski on hand and frankly building one sounds more fun than working for 6 months to buy one. Have done some fiberglass in the past, but not quite to this...

a ton of ways to make a leak tester. You can use a bike pump (similar to mikuni n/s popoff tester), you can barrow an air regulator from work that use 1/8" line and plug it into the pulse line (i usually use the pulse line to leak test my motors, which only works if you are running a 38...

your date calendar puts me at ease. thanks

thanks for the insight blue! your PM box is full....

taking deposites?

what is the best way to compensate and keep a low port timing? is this done by dropping the sleeve? or custom sleeve? or custom porting to lower? or combination of all?

what makes it not that easy? on a 62T 701 with stock length rods? 2-6mm should be doable without to much headache you need to check clearances in the case to crank ( on 4mm+) you need to determine piston squish which will determine what size spacer you need. how do you handle port height? this...

put the ice cream down!

newest/oldest addition, it was a freebe...thanks Joel! we will have some fun with this, this winter...you should come take the 550 for a snowbank rip! 1979 skidoo citation

I will take a large. Paypal sent. thanks!

at least my de-rail pertained to the thread robin, what does your view look like today???

You'd be surprised how messed up the other oems are.

wd-40 and a paper towel are your best friend, but your riding friends will make fun of you. Keeps everything clean and shiny.