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Drill some extra holes in that plate to allow the adhesive to flow up into it to help better locate/adhere it to the hull.

That exhaust outlet makes me a sad panda.

A lot of times the best ride spots are adjacent to private property and just riding right off the beach is not an option.

You need to get your chamber back.

I couldn't imagine what it would be like if that liner would have popped loose all at once on a flopped backflip.

I think the idea of it is to easily locate/replicate the insert locations when building the hull and to make the engine bay look nicer.

The problem is you will probably always have an air gap somewhere between the liner and the bottom deck, being a lightweight hull you will probably always have a bit of flex too (likely will be different between the bottom deck and the liner and likely caused this delamination).

I really think that is the best idea, like I said, you could try and just re-glue what is there back down to make it through the season but ultimately adding new aluminum pads and glassing them in for the motor mounts is the best option.

I would approach this similar to what Schimdty had done on his vision (in the thread posted above) and just put motor mount pads similar to most aftermarket hulls and not try and re-glue the liner portion back in. It will be a lot more work but ultimately I think this is the proper way.

There aren't any oversized tanks and I don't think there would be any room for one. You could possibly mount an RRP bulkhead tank but I am not sure if those are even available?

I am sorry about that, had I known that hull was one with the liner, I would probably have told you to stay away, I would have put money on this happening. Looks like you have a winter project.

Oh man, don't tell me that is this hull... http://x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/anyone-know-whos-ski-this-was.162822/#post-1744719

There are a few hull builders that have (and some that currently are) employed this type of hull construction, it seems that a decent amount of them have delamination issues. You could probably try and get some epoxy resin under it to glue it down and hopefully make it through the rest of the...

Also love my Type 4, I added a spray fitting last year to run it as a wet pipe and am pretty happy with the way it runs. Once I get my ski back together I plan on running it back to back with water to the spray bar and without. The ONLY reason I would switch to a B pipe is if I had a hull that...

Run it till it melts than swap in an aluminum waterbox.

Aluminum or fiberglass waterbox?

Those are sweatpants...I usually wait until lunch time to put on normal clothes. It took me a while to get used to it but I really enjoy it now, my work moved their office 15 miles further away from my house (now a 55 mile drive that can be anywhere from a 1.5-2 hour commute) so I told them I...

Working from home does not suck.

Go to your local Yamaha dealer and see if they will give you a Superjet crate.

There are two O-rings inside your midshaft that seal to the driveshaft, might want to replace those (and check to see if they are still there). If you are getting water that far into the shaft you have more issues than just water in the bilge and might be causing excess wear on the splines.