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There were aftermarket 650 nozzles made that started at 84mm, hard to find now. Get a better prop and use the stock 83mm 650 nozzle.

The 140mm pumps are for high rpm racing engines.

Option #2 is close to correct. Option#1 is junk and #3 is too much load.

Both EFI and mechanical fuel injection have come and gone. Both had some benefits over carburetors but not enough to justify their detractions. I think a carb with an overly rich pilot/popoff can respond better than any fuel injection at a fraction of the price. Thats all anyone here cares about.

Squaring the rear edge will provide lift only. Raising and blending the trailing edge will pull down whenever they have flow over them. Tubbies are for cornering, square sponsons are for lift.

Epoxy is safe on everything but use only alcohol for thinner and cleanup around foam. Also make sure all pinholes are filled before painting over blue/white polystyrene foam.

The rideplate can add or reduce hull area and directional stability. Think about what you need or else you're just throwing around money hoping for better performance.

Get an aftermarket or 1996+ turn plate and shorten the pole pad. The pole is too long for anyone over 5' tall and 100lbs.

Get the same prop, pipe, and Worx 201 grate that you would use on a 701 RN. It will all work well with the 650 cyl and be perfect when you upgrade the engine.

$1400 is too much, but that is easy for me to say since I already have three skis. Condition is everything and $1000 is tops for a perfect one.

It is what every old square does, ride a lot it will majically to go away.

Bigger nozzles have a two fold effect when you are over propped, it makes a difference that is easy to feel. If the prop/nozzle is already perfectly matched to the engine then acceleration will seem to decline faster with a larger nozzle. Too bad A/M nozzles were never big sellers.

The midshaft bearing gets wet and corrodes much more quickly than the pump. They are good for about three seasons. Make sure the pump brarings are quiet and there is notceable seal drag.

Not on a day to day basis asuming everything is in good shape. A 21 year old ski needs a full round of maintenance. All shaft seals need to be changed and bearings inspected for corrosion. Do it right and it can last another 10 years. Dry rev the engine until the head is 180 at the end of...

You can use the WR3 exhaust but it wont be as powerful.

It needs to be 1990-95 and be in very good condition to be worth anything.

Why not use a blaster driveshaft and extend the pump shoe aft? More inlet area would be valuable at low speed.

Its the pump more than anyting. How many Kawasaki owners replace the entire pump/inlet with a Yamaha unit?

You will need a pipe to go with the cylinder mods as well as having the correct prop. Just getting a pipe and prop will do the most good power wise since the 62Tcyl already has better power potiential than a 61X.

Several years ago I could find like new Superjets for $700-$1500. Now a POS is that much. Currently the latest fad is more Superjet friendly so they bring more.