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I dont know the exact reason, old 580-720 Rotax engines were even worse. Kawasakis often toast the front cylinder first.

That happens when the piston outgrows the cylinder, it will scuff next to the wrist pin. It is possible that the clearance was too tight to begin with but usually high combustion temps are the cause. It is easy to run the main too hot if the pilot/popoff is very rich. This is common with...

1993-1994 XI used 40s, some had two pilot jets. 1995 SXI and ZXI had 38s with smaller venturis than standard Keihin 38s. The Keihin 40s are fine but factory parts are more expensive. They tune the same as a Mikuni but you will need to know what you are doing since there are no specs around to...

Solas pumps come with 7mm fittings. Use both or else ream one to 8mm for single line use.

A stock head gasket make multiple outlet locations less inportant. I would use two with an ADA head. Take the head outlet and split it between the pipe and pisser. The pipe will have less pressure than with a dedicated line so the screws may need to be opened a little more.

Leaky heads let combustion gasses out instead of cooling water in. An exhaust leak will cause exactly what you are describing. Remove the blowout door and see if it is any better.

1992 models had thin pistons and CDIs (3728 and 3729) with a backward timing curve. 1993-1995 had thicker pistons and the 3733 ignition that cured most problems. I have witnessed a small pin crank failure, the front pin sheared without damaging anything else. Small pins have good response and...

550 hulls are good for a tight slalom course. They need a larger pump and engine though. The hulls are too weak for hard landings. Nobody does anything with them because they are no longer fasionable.

Relieving back pressure will do more for a stock exhaust but nothing for an aftermarket tuned pipe. More noise will make it feel faster. Go ahead and drill holes in the baffle, it wont hurt anything and you will get a little more noise and think its faster.

I also have problems with cramps on longer rides. My solution was a new cable with lighter return springs along with finding the right throttle position. BTW I also tried a stock trigger but found that it has less throw and requires more pressure than most aftermarket triggers. It was fine for...

The rod failed where there is no compression force, only tension. An electron microscope would reveal a scratch, corrosion pit, or manufacturing flaw that caused the stress riser. Damage to the piston and head was bearing parts since the piston is intact.

Get a 750 engine.

Use a 750 impeller with 2-3mm cut off both ends.

For OEM44s 130 main is fine, go ahead and use a 132.5 on the rear or else open the top screw 1/4 more on the rear. I expect it will end up over 1 turn out but start at 3 and lean to peak. 115 pilots may be too lean, if it hesitates from sustained 1/4 throttle go up a notch or two.

The Skat 12-17 small hub swirl is about right for any 701. If accelleration tapers off quickly then port the cylinder instead of increasing load.

All young males go through this learning process, most drop out before much knowledge is gained.

A high port cylinder is better for a stock FX1 pump. You will need a higher rev limit to go with it.

Make sure to inspect the pump. It would be worth it to me if the hull and pump were excellent. It will take another $1000 to get it going with a good 750.

OEM CDIs are extremely reliable, the weak links are stator wires and plug wires. Makes sure those are new and gap the plugs down to .025".

An airbrush compressor is perfect for composite bagging, you can find used Thomas compressors for around $50. Venturi transducers are great if you have free compressed air otherwise your home compressor will be running all the time. Most dedicated bagging material is expensive because it is made...