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Cheap and easy solution. It may be easier to mount the fan in a cork and plug it into the exhaust outlet. This way the engine would dry out before the exhaust.

Compared to a Seadoo there is fewer parts to replace. You have the typical owner induced piston seizure, usually caused by last years gas on a cool day. Make sure to clean the carbs and enrich the fuel mixture.

It doesnt do a very good job of clearing out water or getting additional oil into the engine and exhaust. Crack open several old engines and corrosion issues become obvious. The conventional wisdom of the group has completely missed this.

You can hold full throttle for 20-60 seconds before it gets hot enough. Dont try it with a cold engine because afterfires are more severe and can blow a hose off, or burst a waterbox. Avoid holding steady part throttle because it heats up a lot faster and will usually do a diesel runaway...

The mod is ok as long as your Hooker is a 9-15 and your nozzle is bored. Higher compression will also make a bigger difference.

PWC exhaust systems do not completely drain. You should dry rev it until the head gets too hot to touch for more than a second. Do it once at the lake and once at home for good results. This method and using TCW3 oil will minimize rust. Always prop the hood open until the hull is completely dry...

Provided its in good condition, the crank, carb, and electronics are very desireable. Cylinders and cases dont have much demand because there is plenty of inexpensive 701 parts around. At one time many people used 650 cases with 61X cylinders, they run about the same as 61X cases.

Use the half pipe with 550 pumps and the WC full pipe with 440 pumps.

It comes in 38" and 50" rolls sold in 1 yard lengths.

Normally sides are the weak link, side landings were never intended by the mfg so they are very thin compared to the bottom.

Actually carbon if good stuff just not very economical for a little reinforcement. You will spend $200 on carbon and then have to bleed out excess resin in order to fully realize its advantage. Laying in $30 of decent glass will get the same results and be 2-3lbs heavier. Bagging your work can...

1208 is only used because it is so cheap. It will work but if you want to do a nice job use 3-4 layers of 7781.

2X2 weave follows curves easier than plain weave. Two layers of 11oz cloth is plenty for the sides. You will have issues controlling resin because the fiber will bulk up and excess resin will pool in low areas. One way to help with this is by laying a layer of nylon cloth (peel ply) over the...

Nice work, now find another nozzle and bore to 84-85mm for a noticeable increase in low speed thrust. You can use your lathe if the siphon is removed or a mill/turn table if left in place. I have never had any problems chucking the inside flange so long as the cuts were small.

There are three gaskets for stock heads. The gasket marked 61X is for 61X stamped heads up to 95. Gaskets marked 62t are for 94-95 62T and all newer 701 64u heads. A 760 uses a thinner metal gasket and a unique 64U style head. Make sure your shop knows the bore and gasket you are going to use.

First make sure your oil will mix. Pour premixed fuel in a glass jar and make sure it is clear, if cloudy the oil will separate. Retune the carb as necessary.

Look at the casting number, all 1996 and newer should be 64u.

A recut stock head is great for mild pump gas applications. No more than 170PSI with stock timing, they normally last forever. I would be more interested in an ADA if I could get domes set up for a stock gasket.

The stock pump cone does not restrict internal flow at all. The Solas mag cone is so tight that I did not take a chance knowing that a short cone wont hurt low speed thrust.

Bend your stock impeller, raise the outside trailing edge until the distance between the blades are almost the same as the leading edge. I installed a Wetwolf and never tested the stock cone so cant say if it is actually in the way. If you buy a new prop get a Hooker 9-15 or Skat equivalent...