Get the molds slick and try a clear coating epoxy, that should give you an in the mold finish that wont crack. Body work and paint really kill your margin.
Keep in mind that there is only two out of the box impellers that are low enough for a high port cylinder, they even need a bored nozzle. Custom low port cylinders will pull everyones pump where the high port will not. I think you could have had acceptable response with the right pump setup.
It depends what you want to do. Back when racing included slalom the SJ was a turd compared to 750s. Once slalom went away the SJ became popular because it was easier to ride in a long closed course race. Here and now it is all about thrust and response at low speeds, the SJ delivers more in...
Our jet pumps will consume 50-100HP between 6000-7000 RPM. It will take 1KW in to get 1HP out. That equals 50-100 car batteries for one hour of full throttle. An 80lb lithium battery may finish a short flatwater routine. That is what the Killacycle drag bike has and can make over 300HP for a few...
The top case needs material removed to clear the cylinder sleeve. It can be done well enough with hand tools or even better on a drill press with a large rotary file.
A cylinder, pipe, and low pitched impeller is what makes the improvement. All three are required for any meaningful gain. The rev limit must also be raised some. The 650 case is not as bad as everyone thinks, I never found a perceivable difference between a 6M6 and 61X case. I used both under...
Used high dollar stuff is is a great deal considering the price of catching up maintenance is relatively small. Old production boats selling for 2-3K that need a lot of maintenance and mods are horrible deals. At least by my standards.
I have done some testing with both. The Skat 9-17 will let the engine rev more but will not make as much thrust at low speeds. A stock Solas S will load the engine more and hurt throttle response. I repitched the Solas for equal peak RPM and found more thrust below 20mph. Top speed was the same...
Remember when any 19y/o burger flipper could get a new Superjet for $130/month. They were the ones providing me with nice 3-4y/o skis with all the A/M goodies for $700.
I was able to use the stock FX1 shaft and SJ grates with the inlet up against the bulkhead. It would have been better to use a SJ shaft and mount the pump aft for a larger inlet radius and additional area.
Yep, what he said. The Kawasaki swap is an easy way to make a big improvement. A properly done Yamaha swap is a lot more work but well worth it when powerful engines are used. It would be a lot less work if you could find a SJ tunnel. I never knew someone is making them for this purpose.
Use a 150 main and power tune the top screw. Set the popoff around 25psi and adjust 1/4 throttle with the pilot. 115-125 pilot is the normal range, make the engine sputter slightly around 1/4 throttle.
It can be shortened a lot with the stock steering location. I have found it far better to move the steering aft by at least 6" first. This makes it jump higher with smoother landings and less spray in your face. Turning also improves. You want to be standing at the rear edge as long as you are...
They will last a long time, even after they get loose. Kawasaki 650 splines are the most difficult to make last. Short splines make it easy to mount the pump off center causing excessive wear. Plus Skat Traks use of an O-ring for a seal made a bad situation even worse. The key is starting with...
X2s take in more water when on their side and they tend to spend more time that way than standups do. I would leave the case drain in an X2 because it does make clearing a swamped engine easier.
The chances of finding a "good" 22 year old ski are very poor. Look at them as a box of parts because that is what they become when you start repairs and upgrades. Resist the urge to get it now and look for the best deal. All skis are fun but you will outgrow their capabilities sooner or later...
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