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Not sure if you are clear on why the Helicoil is necessary. The SJ has provisions for only 8mm diameter bolts, whereas the 62T cylinder is expecting 10mm bolts. By changing the 10mm bolt size in the cylinder, you will then be able to bolt on your SJ exhaust with its 8mm bolts (OEM or aftermarket).

In your case, the Timecert/Helicoil thing is very easy. You mentioned that you have a 62T cylinder, right? That has 10mmx1.25mm threads for teh exhaust. That happens to be the correct size already to accept the 8mmx1.25mm Timecert/Helicoil that is required for your SJ exhaust manifold. If...

Mike, sorry for the delayed response. I did some checking on part numbers and they are indeed different. However, with Yamaha, there are only a handful of mounts. The SJ and FX-1 are definitely diffferent. The SJ has an angle. Can you post a picture of your Raider mounts? Don't you have a...

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Thanks Matt. Hook it up to a charger and make sure it works for you.

Mike, You should at least submit this as a non-paying bidder for that item Select "report an item not paid for" (or something like that, next to the item in your "My eBay" page. That way, they will either pay or b emarked with a non-paying bidder strike by eBay. If they are a repeat offender...

Isn't it really easy to get a Blaster waterbox in and out (unlike having to remove the gas tank on a SJ)? Try both and see which has the best balance of performance and noise control.

Go with a 3 or 4 inch thin wall aluminum tube. The thin walled aluminum will be significantly lighter than the stainless and the volume contained in that tube will be less volume filled with your foam. :biggrin: Seriously though, Think about your b-pipe stinger. I don't have one with me...

There seems to be some question as to whether you have the right chamber. I sold an FX-1 chamber a while ago: http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/9245&highlight=FX-1 There are some pics of it for comparison. It looks pretty much the same, but maybe if you spend some time looking you can see for...

That's what I would do, since you already have the B-pipe. You just got a new motor and you haven't even tried it yet. What inevitably will happen is you will be happy with it for he first few days, and then you will want more power. Leave the EME pipe option for that time.

My take on the EME pipe is to be cautious. The pipe does what it needs to for Malone's 1000cc motor, but I'd rather wait and see someone else slap it on a smaller motor first. That good ol' B-pipe has proven to be very good on motors all the way up to 1000cc. I know that the EME claims X...

What motor mounts are you referring to? Aren't there simply four motor mounts to hold your motor in place? Each of the four are bolted into teh hill with two bolts each, right? I don't recall anything being glued?

A heat gun. Not a hair dryer . You need more heat than that can provide. As long as your turf is not rotting and crumbling off, start in a corner and apply heat to soften the contact cement bond and pull it up a little at a time.

First of all, who told you it was an 86mm exit nozzle? Second, would you do a favor and only address the packing problem without doing anything to the nozzle? If you find that that is the bulk of your problem, then you could dispell a myth of the strong dependence of nozzle bore on...

You would think that, but whatever Yamaha uses on their engine bolts holds up pretty darn well.

I'm not 100% sure, but I think chrome and nickel plating works nicely on ferrous metals, but is a bit difficult to get good adhesion to aluminum (chambers). I see that they do electropolishing. That is beautiful. I think it works best on stainless. XMetal does that on all of their...

You need a 140mm Skat pump. You've ridden Charles's ski with his 140. You know it will be a great match fior your motor and it is more efficient than your 144 OEM+TBM. Go with a 14/19-23 pitch prop.

Was it A-1 Ceramacoat in Clearwater? They weren't plastic. They were zirconium or aluminum oxide. I think they are used in a post-coating polishing step. They were stuck right at the bend of that dump inlet and it was a pain to get them out.

Make sure you are rotating it the correct way. When you are standing in front of the pump, you need to rotate it clockwise to loosen it. If the above is not the problem, and it truly is that tight/bonded, then a hair dryer is not going to give you the heat you need to break it loose. Use a...

It's funny you mention this. I get a kick out of reading posts where people use the statement, "It should work..." I perceive this to really mean that the statement they are giving is second-hand and they have probably only heard it here on the board and that there is little substance behind...