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"A bit more info on this pole. I had a bit of a time putting the chin pad back on of all things. When you tighten down on the two machine screws that hold it into place, it wanted to over tighten the chin pad, causing it to buckle a bit and sit too far forward. My solution was to add some...

I use 320 grit hone stones. I lay the cylinder on it's side, exhaust port down, and angle a small stream of water at the base....it's enough to keep the grit washed out and allow the stones to 'work'. Wash again with a stiff brush and degreaser. Blow dry with compressed air. Wipe down...

If you loosen the mounting bolts on the actual pole mount it might have enough play there to center the pole. If not, then you can enlarge those holes a little bit to give you some adjustment.

A couple comments.......one, I would definately hone that cylinder. You can work a nice crosshatch back into that within a half thou. Two....I didn't see anybody else comment about the piston wash. You asked if it looks rich....I think it's a bit lean. Especially if that black on the left is...

Don't forget to throw Rotax into the mix here! Now we also have a rotary valve we can modify for intake duration & timing like a performance camshaft!!

Good customer service........hard to come by these days.

Yes, you got the idea.

You probably already have one there........a vertical mill (Bridgeport). All you need is a boring bar and a cutter. Place the cutter and a piece of bar stock in the boring bar, outer and center hole. Weld them to each other.....this makes the cutter MUCH more rigid and you can still remove it...

It's black, it's the 'wrong stuff'.

One of the first things I check on an old KAwi doing this is the fuel pickup assembly. They are bad to crack at the top and suck air. Pull it out, plug the low ends, submerse in a bucket of water and blow through the pickups.....look for air bubbles to blow out. This is actually fairly common.

I've NEVER retorqued case bolts. Dab of blue thread locker, torque, and run it. My only guess would be wrong case sealant. Some case sealants WILL NOT hold up to race fuels, or oxygenated blends. Many people swear by the "right stuff", let me tell you, it's the WRONG STUFF! I've personally seen...

That sounds like a great idea...How much nitro??? What size and shape turbo wheel???? Maybe give us a little more info. Just messin with ya. Exhaust on those can be widened 3mm on each side no problem. If you want a good all around gain. Taper and blend it into the exhaust port going out.

In the cylinder sleeve that hangs down into the case. Take a look at the bottom of this Blowsion sleeve--->https://www.blowsion.com/yamaha-785-big-bore-sleeves-blowsion You can see a thumbnail sized notch out of the intake side. That lines up directly with the boost port. The Yamaha 800 and...

Porting.......at least clean up the horrible sleeve to cylinder match-up, widen the exhaust port a little, grind the sleeve skirt away from the port openings, and thumbnail notch the intake side at the boost port. Easy to do, free extra power, no loss of reliability.

I boil up a Ramen noodle, then drailn most of the water. Put in the seasoning and dump in a can of the chunky beef & vegetable stew. It makes a quick, filling meal.

I have also had back and right hip problems forever. No problems at all since I started stretching regularly about 1 1/2 years ago. Stretching is LEGIT guys! Kudos to you older dudes for keeping at it! I hope to follow in your wake!

The new paint looks like it laid out pretty smooth.

I've been eating better and going to the gym since January. I've dropped over 20 pounds and really do feel better. I'll be 47 soon.

I keep it simple....use a regulator like...

I've seen this a couple times through the years on yamaha twins. A faulty voltage regulator can cause a rev limiting situation at around half throttle. Check the voltage on the battery at idle and watch it as you rev the engine.......what does it do when the rev limiting starts?