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Alright then disregard all the info I gave you. I have a stator for sale if you want to buy it

Maniac sells the real tool. Do you know how to work on carbs? If not then don't waste 40$ on it. I can't give out any more secrets, I'm getting yelled at already...

There's more to test than just your cover seal with this cheap tool i'm talking about. porous case/cracked case starter seal internally starter could be leaking through the nose front cover front crank seal(not your problem here) SInce you just had your cases rebuilt whoever did it could have...

so buy a couch cover for $10, a block off for $10 on ebay, and you wont waste any more time and $ chasing your water problem. you already wasted 2 stators& got a rusty bendix/flywheel

What kind of front cover do you use? If you get a couch cover it has the oil injection. make a little plate for the blockoff and put a brass straight 3/8 fitting in it and keep this tool. Also buy another proper blockoff they sell for 10$. After you properly seal your starter with some 1211...

Tpe 650 kawasaki ? Cool. No one was doubting your experiences here. I would have tagged you and said something stupid! I have 3 of these heads running on my Kawi's. Maybe ill try a stock gasket out if I can't get anymore of the originals. I hope good surf falls on the weekend. Trying to make...

They are clearly different. A few of the water holes don't line up, & the westcoast has more holes. WC has the o rings seal to the cylinders. Stock gasket has a smaller cyl opening so the o rings on the westcoast head would be in the crush groove. You can run whatever you want but I'll stick...

i have never seen those buildings before. Did they get washed away?

where was this out of @BruceSki

Hit It lightly with a power washer and it gets real clean

Yeah and I would not use a torch in my engine bay by any means.!! My advice was with the motor out on the bench. It doesn't take long to pull it.

Learned something new today. I always wondered what the "corona stain" was on the porcelain.

Tom he's talking about the small 1 inch hole that has to be hogged out to fit any umi style steering baseplate on the x metal pole. A 4.5 inch grinder would not be the tool of choice to go about doing that. Maybe if they sold that same style aluminum grinding attachment so it fits in a dremel...

Don't overheat because there is a small o ring sealing the top of the dome and a large o ring sealing the bottom. Yellow butane torch and evenly heat it

Good luck finding the correct oem westcoast head gasket and o rings and having them ship fast. I would use penetrating fluid then a small amount of heat on the dome and try backing them out fast with an electric 3/8 impact so the plug backs out before the dome spins

@Quinc you have that pic a little out of wack. There is no "front" screw where you labeled. Your "top" screw is top, your "bottom" screw is the middle, and the bottom screw is not visible in that picture

I had changed my reeds to the Boysen 2 stage at the same time as the carb and manifold. I didn't notice any bit of a gain with my butt dyno, but it tuned in perfect and I didn't have any increase in fuel consumption. That maniac/blue 735 motor ran without a hiccup for over 500 gallons of fuel...

2.3ns at about 20psi. I had a lower pop off at first and raised it up to clean up the rich condition off idle. All tested with mikuni pop off gauge. The 4 spring colors were all consistently a few psi off so don't go by that chart. Best to test and exactly know.

@Quinc what size carb were you using that jetting in?

Just make sure your butterfly valve is a perfect circle. When the sides start to get worn out air leaks past at idle. You will be able to visibly see the wear. This will cause you to compensate with the low speed & idle adjuster more than you have to. Same with the leaking throttle shaft...