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They smoke alot. 40:1 seems like a lot to me. I think they're suppose to run 42:1.

Sometimes you can make a starter that's starting to squeal last a bit longer by yanking, and lubing and cleaning the bearings. There will be 2.

Starter should be easy to test. Yank and hook up to a battery. I'm not sure how the solenoid is in a WB. Look to see where the positive cable from the battery connects to. The positive side of the starter should connect to the same thing (solenoid). Just short the 2 wires together...

Check the mirrors. If the mirrors in the box are not cracked or broke, just fill it back up with smoke. :biggthumpup: What type of ski? Bypass the starter solenoid to test if it's bad.

br3tt wrote: Worked for me. Pretty sure the faceplate I got from Ass Joel was an sxr plate. Works perfect.

1990 SJ stock. It was giving me strange fits that until recently I wasn't able to get it to replicate the problem on my own until recently. When the ski got warmed up, it would act as if the fuel filter was clogged or there was water in the line. The gas flow would seem to cut in and out...

The extended ride plate will keep your nose down more. Whether or not it fixes the porpoising problem is up to you.

I bought a rule bilge from my mechanic in a package deal with the switch that they don't make anymore. It's installed as the only pump in my SN. I hate that piece of crap screen. Every ride out, just about, a piece would break off the screen and get caught in the impeller. I bet that's what...

Wait till winter to get the skis. It'll be well worth it. (Atleast in my area. Those skis drop $500-$1k in price during winter.)

I think that's a common theme in the post `92 hulls. I read a big write up about how they changed the hull design around `93 and they have had problems ever since. I think that was in relation to Seadoos. Have you seen the new SD commercial bragging about their brake? You can actually see...

Thanx guys!!! For future reference, it's normally opened. Cleaning the contacts fixed it and not the circuit is closed when the button is pressed. It relies on a relay to kill the power. It's the same relay that's connected to the rev limiter.

The police are there to punish you, not help you...

Yep. Those were the days. Now the sellers are trying to make the same amount from the sales by increasing the price to recover posting fees. Atleast they seem to be cracking down on the peeps that end the item early cuz the item didn't go as high as the seller wanted.

OK. That narrows it down a little. Primary purpose? Multipurpose? Mainly pulling? Going as fast as possible in a straight line? The GTX 155 is extremely fast. He can go the FX sho route... Keep in mind those suckers drink gas like most men do beer. Our mechanic spent over $300 in gas 1...

The rubber piece on the nose that is held on by 2 metal screws on either side and a plastic through-hole thing in the middle. Anyone know the size of those 2 metals screws? I appeared to have misplaced mine. Thanx guys!!! G

Uh huh..... I've a 1992 with a 587 and the only mods not in it are porting and shaving the head. 38mph tops clocked with a gps. I've gotten it up to 90 or 95 behind my truck though.

You'll need to post links to the specific products. Looks like the target search relies on cookies.

U can borrow ours. :bigok: 92 XP. Wimpy motor and pump but a good hull design. We don't ride it. We have it cuz our friends are too leery of riding the scary standups that it's rumored aren't being made anymore. :lmao: The poor thing never gets ridden. I think it's so funny when people ask that.

I think they're all a PITA. Just be careful that the seals mates correctly and you don't break something. :wink:

Rule #4 is wrong. The kill switch is on the left. Finger or thumb throttle on the right.