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A service is also low quality if its benefit is not stated or measurement of not provided. Speed and weight are the only metric that everyone can easily verify. Everything else is subjective and thats where the prettiest face and best line of BS always win.

Is there an engine "package" common enough for someone like ADA to mfg a one piece girdle head that uses an OEM 760 gasket and a simple water jacket cover? Maybe my solution is to make girdle that fits over a modfied OEM head thats been cut for the application.

All of the A/M composite parts that I have examined are clearly made for looks more than anything else. You have to get below that shiney gell coat or top layer of carbon, then everything turns to crap. Think of all these parts as being made by someone in their garage. How many of them are...

So how did ADA get so popular with such a flawed design?

This hobby has a very high turnover rate and the players are generally very young. The vendors make whatever consumers are buying. Quality is not on the list.

You can cut and respline a sitdown shaft or cut an SJ shaft using a collar pressed over the splice and welded.

I-body carbs have very large venturis relative to their throttle plate area. Install some free flowing flame arrestors and see where the main jets end up. Cutting out the venturis could make the main circuit numb when tuning and sensitive to air density.

Think of your old ski as indevidual parts instead of a whole vehicle. I would rather have the same $$$ in an S/N with a good engine than a R/N that needs one.

There are no bushings in 650-750sx, they started using them on the 1995 750sxi.

RPM stayed the same during acceleration too. This was with a worx grate, 85mm nozzle, and a 701 turning 6900 at 48 mph. My only conclusion is that the pitch and nozzle diameter are very important to performance. Stubby cones and prop location are much harder to measure and in this case...

A 1.5 N/S would require a 65g spring and may still be a little too lean for the throttle blippers among us. A 2.0 is best overall because it gives the springs full range of usable popoff. A 2.0 also has more area than the jets which is important for single carb applications. Make sure the arm...

The "cut back prop" is just something people do here as a matter of course and swear that it makes a difference, just like the stubby cone. I could not change peak rpm or top speed by moving the prop in or out, although I never tried to place it all the way against the stator vanes. The stubby...

Keep the best parts of each engine, especially the crankshaft. Dont get too worried about which case to use if you arent going to buy big carbs and port the cyl. Your pipe and prop selection will make all the difference in performance.

Helmets are cool enough to be seen in, pole pads no way, Id rather be scalped.

They use to make aftermarket nylon bushings for Kawasakis. I did not like them because you had to drill a 7/8" hole and it was hard to keep them straight. You may be able to use bushings from a 750SXI. They look thinner (easier to drill) than the old aftermarket bushings.

Consider the operating rpm of your pump and pipe before you change the ports.

Your popoff is low enough work without much head pressure. You could reinstall the restrictor and raise the popoff to end up with the same mixture. An overly rich pilot/popoff is usually required for best throttle response but will burn a lot of gas in the surf.

What pump and pipe are you using?

Most riders need the longest plate they can get to keep porpoising under control. Any fins will take away from steering authority and make the ski want to go straight. The fins do help if you are into slalom or riding fast.

Use zinc-chromate primer for corrosion protection. You may have to go to an aircraft supply to find it. Use thread sealant or marine grease between the wear ring and stator and they will always come apart easy.