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First understand that water boils at low pressure, after that the rest is easy.

Bigger pumps have some advantages at modest rpms but there is more to it than just size. The inlet and the prop have to be maximized in order to realize enough of a gain. Thats where jetskiers drop out, we can buy bolt-on parts and thats about it.

If the hose is on the bottom it will suck up every last drop of water and crap in the tank first. Do yourself a favor and leave a one inch sump, it will do a good job of catching contaminates.

Copper anti-seize is for iron parts subject to high temps, not good for watercraft. Silver (zinc) anti-seize is general purpose and suitable for aluminum since it (zinc) is lower on the galvanic scale. Long bolts never need loctite because they stretch a lot and will always have tension. Only...

Props are a little different between brands, just screw on the new prop and measure it. A 650 drive shaft bottoms against the prop shaft. Cut the back side until the prop shaft is at the splines. Then remove splines so they clear the drive shaft.

I dont know if it will fit the hull, I was thinking about performance only. Try fitting the raider manifold to the top half of the blaster exhaust if its your only option.

Im just wondering where the cost is. Small boats are not that difficult to build.

Why are these hulls so expensive? I can only find about $500 and two days labor in a gell coat BOB. A 100% carbon hull being around $2500 with gell coat finish.

Don't make any assumptions on carb tuning. Make it fourcycle and lean from there.

You dont want to use the Blaster exhaust on a 62T cylinder. Use the Raider exhaust or aftermarket.

The 750-800 prop has to be cut back and the splines shortened for 650 use. Its easy to do on a lathe once you make a mandrel to hold the prop straight.

Epoxy has a lot less peel strength than softer urethane adhesives. A two part urethane like ScotchWeld is the best for secondary bonds that are subject to peeling force.

This it the highest power/rpm setting and would be best as long as the pump load is correct. Injecting water upstream will lower the pipes working rpm and power. This feature is just a band-aid for over propped boats.

Spend some time tuning before throwing money at aftermarket ignition parts. A modified stock ignition should be acceptable once everything else is correct. The best T/L setup will quicken throttle response noticeably after that. Think of an expensive ignition as "icing on the cake" rather than...

Do you have two carbs? If so tune each cylinder individually. It is unusual for both cylinders to have the same mixture requirements. Never expect both cylinders to run the same just because the carbs are.

Find a small Thomas compressor on ebay and use it as a vacuum pump. Make sure to drill a small vent hole on top. You will be able to suck out a lot of water and find all the leaks.

If the stock one is in place then leave it there. There arent any well designed boxes available anyway. All you are going to get is an empty can that makes a lot of noise.

They do deflect splashes that would otherwise flow through the F/A. Can also add some air restriction.

You simply have a gap between the head and sleeve. The O-ring only is there to stop water and the corrosion it causes. It may be fixed by lapping the cylinder and head perfectly flat. O-ring heads are the worst possible design for a Yamaha, they do better with a crushable gasket. Unfortunately...

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