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if the rad cranks are larger then the crankworks one i would not be suprised if you can fit the 5mm crankworks in the stock cases

Just run wiseco get back to me on how you go

Each to there own I have seen the wiseco break where you talk about as well Not good I would rather a sister in a whore house than to run wisecos but thats my op

send them an email and tell them

lucky its not an issue with the cast pistons and only an issue with wiseco

I have tried all sorts of clearances on wisco pistons and had thrm all collapse in the skirt area The fact that wiseco acknowlodge this themselves make its clear to me its not a clearance issue

depends on how your looking at it Most people speak in duration not degrees after tdc so 180 degrees is opening at 90 degrees after tdc but when you see figures like 192 exhaust and 127 transfers you are talking in duration Ethier one is correct just different ways of saying the same thing

pro-x

What are you basing that on the new ones are worse than the old ones actually most 5mm cranks still run the stock rods

It was on a stock stroke As brad dawson about the new ones( scottie know who i am talking about) he just had a set do it last week The piston collapsed and was tightening the squish on one side causing a misfire Sure if you are running a big squish then it wouldnt be an issue butif you were...

Im not sure I just know that wiseco know about it and they cant fix it If you winge they give you warranty

yes it allows the piston to then rock in the bore

The skirt collapses so the piston can rock in the bore The worst we had was a 12thou collapse this will make for massive wear

Has anyone considered that when you go un in capcity on a two stroke that you open the exhaust port on even a mild engine at 180 degrees So what ever you got divide by 2 because your not using half that new capcity you just paid heaps for I think you will find that about 1 in 10 wiseco...

A set of modifed stock 38s will cause you to comit suicide They end up with a massive lean spot in the transistion , maybe if you buy a set of seadoo 38s it wont happen as thery are a different casting If your going to buildl an engine like this your going to want 46,s at least

into the manifold At postion A

Ok have a look at that picture that tricky put up for us and then block of f,g and e put water straight from the head to h plum water straight to a

wow that head looks awesome

yes

mine pulls hard down low with out water injection but even on my 760 engine it still hits harder than a b-pipe with no water injection