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I'm really curious as to what type of cracks you have seen on the mag pumps. I have a few as do a few friends of mine and I am not aware of this. What part of the pump have you seen with cracks?

I got $1500.00 in parts for a 95 XP 787 that I picked up super cheap. The main things that bring in the big money on those are the electrical boxes (one front and one rear) and the VTS trim system actuator if it has that.

700 used to be a good price, but around here everyone seems to be going with 144 and 148mm Skats so I'm not so sure if it was a deal or not.:27: What kind of cracks have you seen? I haven't run into that on these pumps?

How about putting a set of foot olds in the gunwales, but up front?

A shorter pole will definitely get the weight forward. However, ther fundamental difference between the H2O-X hood and a short pole is that the H2O-X hood is in a fixed position. The super-short handlepole puts you in a very uncomfortable riding position, leaning forward in a metastable state...

I would try to avoid adding weight up front as you just lost 25 pounds on the hull, you will likely have to add more than 25 pounds up front to compensate for the light nose. The lightness of the nose is enhanced by the added effective thrust of the motor pushing the nose up too. Working on...

This FX-1 has a right side exhaust. If I did it from scratch I would make it only there (not also goin gto the back. It was not terrible re the fumes, but the motor was quite a mild 760.

That is correct. I have V-Force reed cages mounted right to the flange on mine.

When Chuckie built my motor, he set up (reshaped dead air spots inthe runners and matched to reed cages) an ATP intake for me as well as the dual M-16 intake. I started off with the ATP as you rode it at the Malone Clinic, Hunter, and was thoroghly impressed enough to enjoy it as the single for...

Just an FYI for those of you interested in R&D Dominator with removable carb plate manifolds. There are two version of this out there. The more common version has an oval cut and is designed for OEM and V-Force style reed cages. The other one is designed to fit R&D M-16 reed cages. These...

When I stated "stuffer" I was assuming that he meant either the Worx stuffer or R&D bonded-in fiberglass stuffer that reduces the intake duct volume before the pump.

I think you are exploring relatively new territory here and if you choose to proceed and get good results with a moderately worked 701-based motor, you will be the innovator of this territory. Any feedback here is mere speculation, except from skinnyman and the two guys who HAD (note "had"...

I have a few comments/questions as I really don't think many people are at a power level to efficiently use a 148mm pump in a SJ (but I may be mistaking). The point of running a bigger pump is to flow more volume. Is the intake tunnel of a SJ suitable for larger than 144mm pumps or would it...

What you posted is the mathematical exact formula for volume of a cylinder. However, that is not directly applicable to tangible specs of a motor (the half-bore is never specified). Therefore, most people have the "magic" number 0.7854 which allows bore (diameter) to be used instead of radius...

cc is more commonly referred to as displacement. Displacement is the amount of volume of air/fuel that gets, well, displaced during a cycle of rotation of the crank. Since there is nothing moving above TDC (the dome) and the dome volume remains the same between BDC and TDC, it is not included...

I have a carbon exhaust tube (the rear one under the tray), but it is only marginally lighter than thin-wall aluminum and not worth the money, unless you want it for show or have it laying around.

Even if it doesn't work as a beach cart, it certainly is a good way for moving your ski around the shop, etc.

I think that a lot of the years used a powder coat and likely epoxy-based. I have found that bead blasting often bounces off that. A chemical paint remover works nicely when epoxy powder coating is used.

Actually, keeping a stock stroke, if you go from a stock bore 701 (81mm) to a big bore 85mm bore you end up with a 772. Thats ~70ccs more displacement. I'm betting that with the same builder doing the porting the same way in each, you will feel a difference.

On the XMW pole, you need to cut about 1/4" off the blunt-tipped "ears" that stick out and then drill and tap the newly-created flush surface. Mount two bolts through the pad and to these points, then drill and tap two holes at the top surface of the pole and mount here too.