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I know Mark pretty well and I was skeptical when I first met him, as he is only in his mid-twenties. I heard about the past events. I had a hard time taking him seriously as a respectable businessman. Over the past months, my views have changed and we have become friends. I have learned...

I'm guessing it means limited spec (head/pipe/etc). That makes it even more of a killer deal.

There is nothing wrong with the 2 nut method. People have used it for years. The socket removers/installers are just a way to make life easier. I've not had a problem with damaging threads yet with the sockets, but i have not encountered any difficult, stuck studs either.

If the stud puller/installer tool is the one that I think it is, it has been around for quite a while, just not widely used. SUPERTUNE uses them and I picked up a set for myself. They install and remove using bearings to grip the stud. Definitely a good investment for carb manifold studs...

Would you weigh yourself a couple times (take the average if it varies a pound or so). Then hold the hood and weigh again a couple of times. Subtract your weight out. It may be a myth, but I have heard that people scales are more accurate in the range of 100+ pounds than in the 10 pound range.

Looks like a second generation may be in order Pat:biggrin: How about a steering baseplate for your pole/turnplate so that people don't have to buy a UMI steering system as well (have I mentioned that before)?

The 24/7 H2O-X uses an XMetal bracket?

Not hard. No biggie though. I was just curious. It seems like the conversion hood would only be slightly heavier than a standard standup hood. I'm curious about the weight of the steering assy vs. the pole/turnplate on a standard standup. Does the conversion require the stock pole bracket?

How much does your conversion hood with steering assembly weigh?

Yup. Oblong the hood hood holes. On my billet XMetal hood hooks (the ones that mount on the ski, not on the hood) I also had to round the rear corner to allow me to mount them back further.

Charlie, it's important to note that you reshaped your nosepiece to allow access to the handlepole bolts for tightening. I think that gives you a lot more room to get in there with a drill and screwdriver than most people have without modifying their nosepieces.

Your black rubber piece has a rubber accordian-like collar around it. Once you move the collar out of the way, the 4-hole black rubber piece has slots on the side of each hole to allow you to slide the cables/wires out. Then just pull them up through the pole. Unless there is something I am...

McMaster Carr carries threaded shaft collars in stainless that start at a few bucks. Do a search on "shaft collars" at www.mcmaster.com. They have numerous styles (side-lock, double side-lock, etc.). Is this similar to what Parr is using? Does he source these from available vendors or is he...

Again, I'm not knocking you and perhaps I wasn't aware of your full plan. Just remember, you have a few months to gather the parts (because of winter), so don't rush into buying anything. $50.00 for that prop, which is not ideal and requires labor costs to rework (unless you know how to rework...

My suggestion would be to contact a few key builders and speak with them directly. Everyone on the board has their preference (and hence bias). Mine is Team Scream. But, I know that Art at Jetworks is also a wealth of knowledge and has great priced, proven packages. Likewise, Paul (LPW) has...

DaUpJetSkier, I've seen your posts on asking for used parts and tryingto save money with things like this. I realize that we all do not have unlimited budgets, but your approach (in my opinion/experience) is going to lead you to end up with a terrible ski of mismatched, unreliable, used...