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Maybe he wants to race sport spec?

the only problem if you keep shimming the rear is that the angle of the driveshaft into the midshaft. You can shim your midshaft housing to compensate though.

Epic. This is the type of videos we need more of if we want this sport to be mainstream.

I agree. Chance are this guy wont give you a dime, especially since he was such a shady seller to begin with. Its a hard lesson to learn, but you wont make that mistake again.

Yea I agree. $300 is not a lot for a hull either. Thats some shady stuff right there. Probably the worst repair job I've ever seen.

Plates are designed for one purpose or another. You wont really find a plate that gives you the "looseness" of a stock D cut and stability at top speed. I used to bring two plates and switch it out if I knew I was going on a long ride chasing boats etc. I eventually settled on a Jet Dynamics...

Thanks for that. I just picked up a C4 chamber for my Sport Spec build. I will be making that modification. Any other tips and tricks are more than welcome.

You're right. I missed what he said. I always thought it was difficult to make significant gains with a single pipe on triple cylinder, something to do with the 120 degree phasing of the pressure waves.

I think there are more triple Yamaha blasters then Kawi blasters, but not many of them are racers. I think only serious racers would pay for triple pipes, so the yamaha triples just wouldn't sell much.

Got to meet Tim at finals and had a great conversation with him. He basically blew my mind. Hopefully he sticks with this, because there will be great things to come from his full system (manifold to waterbox). Here's a picture of us trying to figure out how it will fit in a blaster. Looks...

You probably need to tune the carb. What are your pipe screws set at? Probably should start with top closed, middle closed, bottom 1/2 turn.

^^^Let me add that you will probably need to grind it flush after you do that. The way they make the shoe, it has more material than needed and will hang below the bottom of the hull. You dont want it hanging below the hull.

It doesnt look right to me. I don't recommend using the original screw holes as a guide. I would fill them in and run new holes. From your pics the shoe looks like it needs to be tilted up so it has the same angle as the hull. Bolt up the pump and intake grate to help align it.

You can find deals if you get there early in the week, especially from the clothing and gear vendors who are trying to clear the inventory at the end of the year. Hydroturf sheets are pretty cheap too along with some other gems you can find.

The U pipe is hard to find. You'll probably be better off just having some tubing bent up to your needs by a shop. This site is pretty good if you just want to piece something together yourself. http://www.siliconeintakes.com/aluminum-pipes/?osCsid=dbe9c611d650ee72471a8fa8d860941f

I think thats actually priced accordingly. How the hell do you manage to smack your legs on the top portion of the bar clamp? All my levers are mounted with a slight forward rotation, so it would be practically impossible, unless I was on the hood of the ski, to smack my leg on the top part.

This looks pretty skin tight. I wonder if it will hold up in the salt water.

Do you need the manifold from and R&D Dry pipe? Sorry about the confusion, Im just trying to figure out if this will be sport spec legal (wet pipes only), and if it will fit in a blaster. Building one right now, and I dont have a pipe yet but this seems worth the wait.

Top and middle closed, bottom 1/2 a turn.

Yea I think you do. Safety.