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Why are you paying 100 bucks for your bearings; are you using something special?

Still needs a special driveshaft for the setback mag pumps and they require a wider double row front bearing due to the shorter vane section. I would image the shipping cost from Asia is quite expensive too.

The perfect pump would have a cast stainless stator section with an aluminum housing and a stainless replaceable insert wear ring IMO.

Side by side might work better. :silly:

Interesting.... so if the stainless wear ring gets damaged you have to replace the whole pump?

$475 Solas 12-Vane Mag. $35 Bearing & Seal Kit. $5 O-ring or $15 Aluminum Spacer. $249 Skat-Trac Swirl C75 thin blade impeller. or $209 Solas Concord large hub YQ-CD-pitch impeller. Around $725 to $775 plus labor and shipping cost.

The stock pump stator has a real lip edge that measures around 157mm and the Solas 12-vane unit measures around 149mm which creates a sealing gap issue between the reduction nozzle & pump surface, so an aluminum spacer or o-ring is needed to eliminate this gap problem. You can purchase the...

Still making these sponsons and should have some more for sale soon.

That will never work... you have to bore the sleeves out while they're still in the cylinder. You'll need to find a machine shop near by that has the proper equipment such as boring bar and hone machine. If you're running raise compression with a b-pipe the recommended clearance with cast...

61X stator: 62T stator:

Measure it from the threads to the driveshaft seating surface and it should be around 7mm for a stock C75.

This is advanced around three degrees.

The line straight with the arrow is correct unless you would like to advance the timing a few degrees by turning the stator counter clockwise.

Can't beat that price, I've been paying close to that for a quart of DuPont two part epoxy primer.

So when are you coming out with the T-shirts? :smile:

The first definition might be a better choice unless you're a pot head. http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=blowsion

Aluminum rails in racing are very common usually run about a third the length at the rear of the jet-ski. I wouldn't use PVC because it can be very brittle and dangerous if ever broken because of the jagged edges it leaves behind. If you were going to use plastic, I'd consider using Lexan which...

I wouldn't use them for a freestyle engine unless you are running longer than stock reed cages because it will reduce your primary compression ratio which is the pressure build up inside the transfer ports.

They look more like three condoms with the reservoir tips.

A heat lamp would work well if you don't have a space heater.