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I've found that those digital box type angle gauges work well but you need a flat surface to bolt the impeller for calibration like a perfectly flat table, trailer hitch jaw or in a lathe chuck works the best. I went to the trouble of making some pitch gauges out of clear acrylic with some...

The stock wear ring is a stainless insert with aluminum housing and Solas makes an all stainless wear ring which weighs a bit more than the oem unit. It's simple a stainless insert wear ring will have better wear resistance than plastic insert type but the yamaha stainless ones don't have...

Bingo!... your wear ring is trash so get a new one and preferably all stainless or a least with a stainless sleeve. Your Skat most likely has worn blades.

That's true and don't forget the impeller will sit further back closer to the stator vanes and the rubber/metal sealing washer that sits under the prop might make contact the front seal unless it's installed backwards or removed.

The oem bearings have a 52mm outer diameter with a 25mm inner diameter that are 15mm wide part number 6205 and if the driveshaft is too long you can compensate by installing a thicker front bearing with the same inner & outer dimensions. 6205 = 15mm wide 5005 = 16mm wide 2205 = 18mm wide 5205...

You could use the thicker 20.6mm mag pump double row front bearing number 5205 if that's the case instead of the regular single row bearing number 6205 which is only 15mm wide. Just hope you guys don't have your impellers cut back too far or you will need a spacer behind the prop too.

I'd get her a bike with a sidecar so the kids can ride too. Maybe your wife is trying to tell you she's looking for a little excitement and doesn't actually want a motorcycle at all?

You'll need a bearing seal kit along with someone that will let you use a shop press. Check with JetManiac he might have some Solas pumps already assembled for a good price.

McMaster-Carr has the stainless-rubber mounts and fiber washers.

Post it for sale on Craigslist.

The stock 38s only have one fuel pump so there's really no need to fill the intake crossover on the dual 38mm manifolds unless you want to install an extra fuel pump.

Those Kawasaki reduction nozzles have an 86mm outside diameter so boring it too 85mm would make it paper thin at 0.5mm. You should bore your reduction nozzle at a 1.5 or 2.0-degree angle to maintain pump efficiency since you're using a lathe and I wouldn't make the inside diameter any larger...

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Tin-Plated Interlocking Terminals & Directional Waterproof Boots in Clear or Green 1-Boot & Terminal Set = both male & female ends. $0.50 10-Boots & Terminals Sets = both male & female ends. $4.80 20-Boots & Terminals Sets = both male & female ends. $9.00 50-Boots & Terminals Sets = both...

Devcon aluminum liquid would have worked better IMO. I'm sure what you did will last for a while but if it ever gets exposed to fuel or high heat that stuff going to come loose or get soft.

The only problem with JB-Weld is that it's a very thick consistency almost like putty which makes filling the cases more difficult. Also if it ever get exposed to fuel for a long period of time it will become very soft from my experience using it. Devcon aluminum liquid seems to be far superior...

I would use the Devcon liquid aluminum before the putty because it can be poured in the cases easier. Just remember to install your lower case bolts with some Teflon tape so the epoxy doesn't go through the holes and fill it higher than it needs to be because the stuff shrinks as it dries. Also...

The stock 61X reduction nozzle is tapered at 2.2-degrees with an 82.3mm exit diameter and has an 89.2mm outside diameter so it can be safely bore too around 85.5mm depending on the angle used. I wouldn't go any larger than 84.5mm with a blaster-I if you want to keep the top speed and would...

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