surfjunkie said:ya'll timed that one just right. caught in on the one and only day worth riding. swell has all but died 12 hrs later.
good call nick
yamaslut said:thanks scott.... dude... we really missed ya out there yesterday!!!!!
the low down: we arrived at the beach around 9am to see what I would call EPIC conditions..... a solid 8ft swell on the outside head high on the first break, breaking top to bottom and pealing... I had the best surf rides of my life, no doubt... Ted and I took off on the same wave going opposite directions and I swear it was a 10fter... I came so close to getting tubed... by far the closest ever... I looked up and could see the wave directly above me about throwing... I almost peed myself, I was sooo stoked... It was just one after another of perfect waves... Unreal!!!!
TXJFrosty said:niiiiiiice... I love days like that... just riding... nothing else.
Robert said:Here's a pic. I'll post a few more when I have time. That was the best kidney stone I ever had.
yamaslut said:thanks scott.... dude... we really missed ya out there yesterday!!!!!
the low down: we arrived at the beach around 9am to see what I would call EPIC conditions..... a solid 8ft swell on the outside head high on the first break, breaking top to bottom and pealing... I had the best surf rides of my life, no doubt... Ted and I took off on the same wave going opposite directions and I swear it was a 10fter... I came so close to getting tubed... by far the closest ever... I looked up and could see the wave directly above me about throwing... I almost peed myself, I was sooo stoked... It was just one after another of perfect waves... Unreal!!!!
yamaslut said:thanks scott.... dude... we really missed ya out there yesterday!!!!!
the low down: we arrived at the beach around 9am to see what I would call EPIC conditions..... a solid 8ft swell on the outside head high on the first break, breaking top to bottom and pealing... I had the best surf rides of my life, no doubt... Ted and I took off on the same wave going opposite directions and I swear it was a 10fter... I came so close to getting tubed... by far the closest ever... I looked up and could see the wave directly above me about throwing... I almost peed myself, I was sooo stoked... It was just one after another of perfect waves... Unreal!!!!
Robert said:This pic details the quality waves. Scott, this was not intended to piss you off.:biggrin:
I have some other pics, some that are sequenced and a couple short vids. I will load to the gallery later.
Robert said:This pic details the quality waves. Scott, this was not intended to piss you off.:biggrin:
I have some other pics, some that are sequenced and a couple short vids. I will load to the gallery later.
Robert said:This pic details the quality waves. Scott, this was not intended to piss you off.:biggrin:
I have some other pics, some that are sequenced and a couple short vids. I will load to the gallery later.
Robert said:Scott, this was not intended to piss you off.:biggrin: