Why? :biggrin:
J/K.
The surf on late Friday and all of Saturday made me nervous. I didn't much like going out in it.
The size wasn't bad by itself, but everything was extremely close together. I had a hard time just getting to the outside, there was constant whitewater charging at you.
Playing around in the beach break on Friday late afternoon was challenging. I'd try to get to a wave only to have it close up. So then I turn around to let the whitewater go down a bit before trying to go through. Remember, there would be another breaking wall of whitewater just a second or two behind it. So then I'd have to race parallel to the beach to find a low spot in the wash. There were a few times where it was literally 5 ft whitewash a couple of feet to one side, and beach a couple feet to the other side.
Fun stuff.
J/K.
The surf on late Friday and all of Saturday made me nervous. I didn't much like going out in it.
The size wasn't bad by itself, but everything was extremely close together. I had a hard time just getting to the outside, there was constant whitewater charging at you.
Playing around in the beach break on Friday late afternoon was challenging. I'd try to get to a wave only to have it close up. So then I turn around to let the whitewater go down a bit before trying to go through. Remember, there would be another breaking wall of whitewater just a second or two behind it. So then I'd have to race parallel to the beach to find a low spot in the wash. There were a few times where it was literally 5 ft whitewash a couple of feet to one side, and beach a couple feet to the other side.
Fun stuff.