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I got to ride Skinnymans GK845, and I thought it ran good. It had good response with all stock parts. Best of all it was the easiest plug-n-play setup that Ive ever encountered.

Go down to surfside, its a bigger beach and a lot less crowded.

The 3729 box came only in 1992 750sx. That particular box is very undesirable because it has no retard curve or rev limiter that I could ever find. They will cause detonation with an advance plate and high compression. I never checked the 93-94 3733 boxes but the 3738 box is very good with a 5...

On a standup the range is usually affected most by the pilot/ popoff setting unless you are able to run at full throttle most of the time. A good responsive setting is normally very rich at part throttle and uses a lot of gas. The most fuel efficient setting will be very clean at part throttle...

It seemed like the meter had hit bottom so I pushed on the ski and it read the extra pressure perfectly. All this makes me wonder if a different pump geometry would be more benneficial than just throwing more power at what we have.

Thrust followed rpm directly until about 3/4 throttle, then the meter stopped while the engine revved a little more at WOT.

The skis were sunk as deep as possible, there was no unusual vibration or even bubbles in the slipstream. I suspect that there is some dynamic pressure recovery when the ski is moving allowing for more thrust . I thought the test was revelant because the most important aspect of performance now...

Srtapped to an open trailer sunk up to the hood pushing against a hydrolic load cell. Same test for all boats done back to back.

Why spend big bucks for modified 44s when there is sbn46s avaliable? Tuning a carb to match a particular setup by changing the venturi size is one thing. An expensive prepackaged "modified" Mikuni is nothing more than a bill of goods in many cases. Ive ridden too many boats with $1000 carbs...

Has anyone measured the static thrust of their ski? A local guy put a load cell on a trailer and let everyone try it out. None of the best running skis could make much over 600lbs of thrust no matter how deep we sank the trailer. All props were all impros modified concords and the engines...

The only thing that will be lighter is your wallet.

Somewhere the labor is real cheap!

On an fx1 it wont matter because your pump cannot convert the extra power into thrust. Find a high rpm pipe and use a flat prop.

If tailstands are important then install an elbow in front of the bulkhead, you wont even need to cut the hose.

Clunks do a good job but nothing can beat a pump and vapor seperator.

The round nose boats seem to be a little better than the squares. But yea, they are assymbled by drunken retards. Ive seen hulls and poles twisted with glue everywhere except the glue joint. I hate to say it but Kawasaki does a much better job.

These new large hub props do load a lot more than I expected based on their pitch numbers. What sucks most is that I usually cant bend the blades enough to fix an overload problem.

Some guys can do that on a stocker. Everyone else needs to spend big $$$ to make it happen.

Protec made their manifold to clear the hump on the stock reed plate. All other designs that did not use the stock reed plate had short inlet tracts.

It takes at least an aftermarket BB cyl to pull a stock 13-17 concord. I always end up bending blades and boring nozzles to get the rpm up.