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^^^Thats a good suggestion but I'd prefer to just tune on them myself with a little direction from the experts.

Sottie Mac suggested I go with bigger carbs. Nuff said. :)

Hey Matt, thanks, thats basically the answer I was looking for. My setup right now on the 38s is close to that. Its a limited blaster. I just bought some 44s for it and it was jetted with 120P/130M. Couldn't tell what the n/s was but the popoff was around 34 with a shiny silver spring. If...

I realize that every setup is different. Put it this way, lets say you had a setup that was pretty good but you felt like you could go with bigger carbs. First time out tuning, how would you jet? Would you expect to be running leaner on the jets compared to your smaller carbs? Lower popoff...

Nobody? I'm just asking if you would expect leaner or richer on the jets going from 38s to 44s. Just a general question. thanks

I've searched and I can't find a post similar to this. The question is, generally speaking, all other things being equal, when going from 38s to 44s, what would you expect your jetting changes to be? I'm guessing lower popoff for starters. thanks.

wish we had some more big boats like that around here. you would think there are plenty at Mead, but there is hardly any. sweet vid man, looks like alot of fun

just curious. what the hell did you do that pissed Looter off enough to say you're not welcome. shouldn't matter now anyway, he's retired.

So which do you like better? Sounds like you might be opting for the rears next season?

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I've replaced a couple in my time but never had it stick in the closed position. Usually for me they just work intermittently before they die altogether. These are the same across all yamahas, so if it was a problem then it shouldn't be just a blaster problem. You probably just got unlucky.

The search function will probably answer most of your questions. Here is the post I had on the op nozzle. http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/58473&highlight=nozzle Blasters come stock with a stainless prop. They're actually pretty good for a stocker prop. Like most things, the prop just...

just fyi. if you run that nozzle on the blaster, you're probably gonna have to run a beefier steering cable like a WB2. It will require a little modification to get it to work. Just letting you know from experience, the extended nozzle puts more stress on the cable.

Hmm. That's a strange bracket. I never use brackets. I just adhere it to the bottom of the hull.

My friend just had a head milled by Harry, he told him specifically that he wanted 185psi. What did he get? 165psi.

http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/496&highlight=cdi+mod Here's a link to the thread that explains how to do it. There are a couple different ways it can be done. When I do the mod, I remove the 100K resistor and replace it with the 100k potetiometer, that way there is some adjustment. Other's...

You can run an MSD, or you can modify the stock cdi if you want to save some money. MSD is $200+ and modifying your cdi is $2. I've done it several times, its easy. Are you comfortable soldering?

Do you have a modified FX-1 144 pump?

Nice^^^ Did you find yourself hitting the rev limit at all? I had to mod my stock cdi to keep it off the rev limit.

After you ride it hard for a little while with the new gasket. Re-torque the head. The gasket will compress slightly after one ride.