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GP800 OEM mounts I've found to last really well. Like you say, some hulls require the bottom skimming to allow them to fit but well worth the hassle IMO.

What motor are you putting them on? They are all only as good as the person tuning them.... But that being said... On big motors I've always found the Dasa 48's very forgiving and easy to tune.

But is the prop hub touching the hub of the pump. You will not be bale to see this as it sits inside the prop hub. If you back the prop off a few turns and it slows it to spin it just needs more spacers.

Just to confirm, with prop off shaft spins nice and free? If so and all turns on the way down just locks up at the end you might find the prop has been set back like 5mm and is still touching hub so needs a lot more spacers

Good question... im interested to see peoples views on this. I was always lead to believe that when you tune a SJ and increase compression etc there was a chance of the cylinder cracking so that's why you alwys ran a girdled head. A lot of builds I've seen lately don't use a girdled head any more.

That looks sooooooo nice :-) What motor setup are you running?

I’ve flipped my mates glass old shape XFS with a 701 in. Was setup to perfection tho and had to have the wake setup and pre burst perfect but can be done. Took me an riding an 1100 for a while to learn to flip first tho

Anymore updates on these carbs?

I ran the same plugs on my dasa 1100. Tim at TNT did a big write up on here about plugs and using the br9eya so I went with what he said. Ran mint, noticeably better than with the br8es. If your plugs are wet and black it sounds mega rich. When we’re the carbs last stripped and setup?

Also old plug are best for checking plug colour. On a new set it takes a while to get enough carbon on them to be able to read.

Plug chops are really only accurate when you are riding the ski hard or as close to WOT as possible. On the 1200 I’ll go and do as many flips as I can in a row, kill gas quick and check plugs. The bottom end you tune by feel. As said you need to determine if it’s lean or rich. If you give it...

Top job there mate. Wish I had never sold my old one. Had a one off light weight one that had the same treatment urs is getting. Think it ended up at 45kg hull and Hood pole bracket etc in the end.

Thanks for the reply that’s great.

Just looking at buying one of these. The dealer is saying it’s more of a cream colour than white, and more like a primer than gel coat. Would it be ok to run as is or does it definity need painting. Was thinking of a quite bare graphics kit on it Cheers

Looks like an awesome bit of kit. I have billet cases on my DASA 1200 and there are no stock timing marks. I could put the stator on another engine, mark the centre line where the cases meet on it and line up on the billet cases but guess there is room for a slight error.

Yea, just seems crazy to me you only get 1 oversize.

Why don’t they do a 94.5mm pistons for the big motors. Seems crazy to me as sleeeves cost so much by the time you have them fitted ported and bored. Surely half a mm out would clean it up and give you a bit more life out of your sleeves.

I prob have some videos somewhere I’ll havea look

Don’t know, it still flipped nice, would do 3-4 easy. Just seemed to lack the very bottom end punch when the pump was loaded right up landing spins etc. Moved stator round and perfect again now, does 360-180-flip-flip—flip crisp and clean every time I hit gas.