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Its what Art says you must have.

None of the old 650 impellers make great low speed thrust. Get a modified 750/800 Skat 9-17 swirl or 11-16 concord.

I think you will find the Hooker 9/15 to be on the high side for all but the hottest 701. Get an 85mm nozzle and/or take some load out of the impeller.

He probably toasted a piston with pump gas on the very next ride. I can picture the ski laying on the ground in someones backyard with the disassembled engine sitting in its hull that is half full of water. The typical death of modified skis.

That would be about right for a low port cylinder with a limited wet pipe although I would shoot for at least 7000. High RPMs come with high ports and dry pipes.

Heating an aluminum stator even a little makes the process much easier. Steel stators usually end up needing a press unless you have access to liquid nitrogen and are sure the fit is not to tight.

Its easy to install a tab on the rideplate that will prevent the grate from falling when the OEM shoe breaks.

How tight did the bearings fit the SS pump? If a lot of pressure was required to install the bearing its internal clearance could have been taken up. A 6205C3 is ok for mild press fits, a 6205C4 may be required.

Pretty soon we will see 9 year old kids on even shorter hulls landing double backflips.

Clean out all the rust, reassemble, and finish the season. It will probably last a lot longer than you think. If you want to fix it, find a big pin case, and use SBT crank and pistons. Use your old cylinder and head. You may have to file the bottom corners of the liners to clear the larger...

A case and carb upgrade is good for noticeably more pop and maybe 1 MPH. It is most beneficial for freestylers and racers where a little means a lot.

A tab welded to a stock plate will need some reinforcing because it is weak and will porpoise even more after it gets bent even slightly. I like to use two angles about 3/4" bolted to the stock plate extending 3-4". This will provide plenty of strength as well as some added directional...

The Keihin can be used with a modified stock manifold and stock flame arrestor. The Mikuni will require an aftermarket manifold, flame arrestor, and cable drum. The accelerator pump is no good for standups, tune the pilot/popoff rich for best response. A bigger carb is not worth much on a stock...

Your jetting is for dual carbs. A single carb manifold delivers much lower vacuum pulse to the carb so larger jets are needed. Do you have a 65gram or 95G gram spring? A 2.3 with a 95 should work well, a 65 is very low. Your 120 pilot is probably too lean for best response, the engine should...

Your jetting is for dual carbs. A single carb manifold delivers much lower vacuum pulse to the carb so larger jets are needed. Be sure about the spring, a 2.3N/S with a 95 should work well, an 80 may be better. Your 120 pilot could be too lean (depending on popoff pressure) for best response...

The focus here is extremely narrow and has little interest outside of a Superjet or aftermarket ski. Try PWCToday.

I am more interested in why you would want a larger bleed orifice.

Use your Protec and get a modern low pitched impeller.

The bottom screws are for idle only, tune them rich of peak rpm on the trailer. Open the top screws until power is lost then lean to peak. Clipping one coil off the springs will sufficiently enrich the 1/4-1/2 throttle mixture.

Make sure the N/S lever is flat. I had one that was bent outward just a little and it bottomed when the diaphragm cover was tightened. The end result was a little harder starting and 40% more fuel burn.