Search results

You definitely do not want the pipe within 1/4" of the side of the hull. If you have this situation, put a piece of Hydro-Turf in there. Take a notice next time how much your motor (and pipe) vibrate. You will wear a hole through your hull in time (see pic).

You'd be surprised how human nature plays into this. My experience is that once a bidder decides to bid on something, it becomes sort of a challenge that they really want to win and all common sense is pushed aside. If you start the bidding low enough, you get a lot of people playing this game...

Oops, I guess you were talking about setting it in the hull, not sealing the holes. Sorry. Most likely 5200 though for mounting the tube in the hull.

If you aren't going to use it right away, just put vacuum caps with zip ties on both ends.

lol. I'll probably keep it as a backup, but I'll post if I do decide to sell.

Ask PancakePete, Freestyleriverrat, Crammit442, IKSTEJ, cmw239, or spokewrench what they thought of the intake on my 860cc motor. Most people are surprised that a single can make the power they felt on that ski. That being said, Charles (crammit442) has a very similar setup to me, but he is...

I'm pretty happy with my WCF hull too. I don't put it through quite as much abuse as Pete does, but it's definitely solid and lightweight and a definite value for the price.

So the surf version has about 10 pounds over the flatwater version (hood on mine is 10-12 pounds).

85-90 pounds sounds about right. That's what mine is.

As shown in the picture I think it is just the plate and bars. You have to get the UMI or TBM steering mount/bearing assembly separately (not from XMetal).

You are likely going to drill and replace either or both the bottom and middle screws. The big question is how did they do the top "bolt" that they relocated. Does thatone operate just like the screws, where you can turn it all the way in and keep water from entering the exhaust and does it...

You should be able to close off all screws completely. With the overall condition of the headpipe (somewhat corroded screws, that is) it is likely that one or more are stuck in the partly open position. Put water in at the top inlet and block off the bottom outlet to build up pressure to look...

Agreed, don't mess with the chamber. Leave it as a limited, then if you think you can get more from a mod, later on, go ahead and cut it.

On the headpipe, hook up a hose to the inlet (simulating the water coming from the head) and see if the bolt is adequately stopping water when fully closed, or see what it is doing, then go from there. One way or another, you will use the oversize Diddy-bolt in either place of the bolt (on the...

On the head pipe, if that is the middle screw in the first picture of post 2, then try giving it a few cycles of MAPP heat (available at Home Depot). Get the stainless to glow red and then cool a couple times. Then after it cools again I bet you will be able to put a Vise Grip on there and...

I don't think you have to do anything to the manifold. FYI, the top two bolts holes are open at the top as-received from Factory Pipe. As far as the enlarged holes go, you can use them like that, just make sure you have a decent washer to spread the load. I am currently running a 62T B-pipe...

Boss, After reading this I spoke with Pat. He has them in stock. I don't know what the holdup is, but Pat is a great guy to deal with and I have always had good experiences with XMetal. Not sure what happened in the past, but I'd suggest giving either Paul or Pat a call now to check again.

I don't think it's an appropriate question to ask how much horsepower you are making with a given set of parts. If you really wanted to make the most horsepower with your parts, you would tweak tham for optimal flow so that your engine could push air/fuel through it at the maximum possible...

Try jumpering your bilges directly to the battery terminals. If they spin freely and normally then start looking for bad connections in all of your cabling, likely ground, but check both.

Beautiful paint. The pole looks nice and shiny, but contrasts with the flames scheme too much (IMO). How about just painting the pole to match the rest of the ski?