What would you do with this bpipe???? or wanna buy it???

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
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2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
fine pics....
 

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Ok some of you know I asked a thousand questions about this bpipe i found for a good deal.....

This is not a complaint about the seller!!!! I just want to know what you think, would do with the pipe.....


Well I got the package, and its not as expected. I have already contacted the seller (who is a complete stranger, totally honest helpful guy, and did not mislead me in anyway) He already agreed to take it back for a full refund.... or refund me partial to pay to fix what needs to be done and I can keep it...
Can you ask for more:biggthumpup: nice to find good guys :Banane01:

Now to my questions....
Here is the condition(what needs to be fixed)....
Manifold: Holes were drilled out for bigger bolts... then filled and re drilled.... they need filled and re drilled again.....(is this a reliable fix) top two inner holes have been cut open for easier install... makes sense to me but his being my first bpipe, is this how you guys do it???

Chamber:
Seller and I both thought it was a mod... its not.... it also has more dents in it then id like.... I could get it cut (could prob take dents out easily then) and welded shorter.... don't know what it will cost me tho....

Headpipe:This is the only part I don't know if i can fix it to normal function.... Problem obviously is with the tunning screws.... (1)Top one... I knew it was plugged and was told it was re drilled.... but it was relocated... is this ok??? and its just a regular bolt so you cant even adjust it???? (2) middle one needs drilled out, tapped and new oversized screw, (3) bottom one looks fine don't know it it turns in or out (no tools on me)....

--------------------------------------------------------------
So....
What do you all think it would cost to pay some one to fix all that stuff....
I don't have the means or tools to fix any of it.....
Would "I" be better of buying on good to go since i have to pay to get all this fixed.....

my estimate:
$50- to fix expansion chamber
$40- new HP screws
$40- labor to fix HP screws and exhaust manifold

But all said and done will the perform as well as a "new, non fixed up" pipe!!!


Well thats a long explanation but you guy know way more than me, I appreciate the feedback!!!

Thanks-NICK

How much did you pay for it if you don't mind me asking?

I'm sure it will perform the same as a new bpipe once you fix everything, but you have to ask yourself is it worth the time and money to do so.
 
By the way right now I'm staring at a brand new bpipe sitting in a cardboard box next to me on the floor. :biggrin: It sure is nice to know everything works and is in brand new condition and ready to be installed tomorrow. There is a lot to be said for that, but I did have to pay 688 when it was all said and done.

Do you have the time and means to fix that pipe? Personally I am very busy and don't have the time to screw with a used pipe so an extra $150 is worth it to me.
 

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
I have plenty of time to fix it....
I don't have the tools to fix any of it....
I would be paying some one to fix all of it...(don't know a cost)
I was keeping the price out of it... don't want to cloud judgment.....
but its a lot cheaper than new thats for sure
 
I have plenty of time to fix it....
I don't have the tools to fix any of it....
I would be paying some one to fix all of it...(don't know a cost)
I was keeping the price out of it... don't want to cloud judgment.....
but its a lot cheaper than new thats for sure

Then if you're gonna save a ton of money fixing it and you have the time to do so go for it. It's going to perform exactly the same as my new bpipe.:biggthumpup:

With all of the money you saved you can send it to that guy on the boards that powdercoats them for a relatively low cost and you're used pipe will look better than a new one. :biggrin: That's if you really care how it looks.
 

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
But Im conserened about how that top screw is relocated....
i dont understand how these things work.....

OK so it cost me 370....
Im offered a 100 refund....

So the pipe is sitting at 270 cost.... now gotta fix all of it... i guess the question could be what do you guys think its gonna cost..... and am I ok with that top bolt....
 
But Im conserened about how that top screw is relocated....
i dont understand how these things work.....

OK so it cost me 370....
Im offered a 100 refund....

So the pipe is sitting at 270 cost.... now gotta fix all of it... i guess the question could be what do you guys think its gonna cost..... and am I ok with that top bolt....

I was under the impression that the only screw that is even open is the bottom one so I don't think it would matter. I don't know too much about the technical aspects of the pipe. Maybe someone can chime in and answer this.

For 270 I'd definitely say you're doing alright.:biggthumpup:
 

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
Then if you're gonna save a ton of money fixing it and you have the time to do so go for it. It's going to perform exactly the same as my new bpipe.:biggthumpup:

With all of the money you saved you can send it to that guy on the boards that powdercoats them for a relatively low cost and you're used pipe will look better than a new one. :biggrin: That's if you really care how it looks.

krylon:biggthumpup:
 
Or you could look at it this way:

Recently beat up bpipe's have been going for 450 on ebay. Sell it on ebay and be sure to explain everything that is wrong with the pipe in the auction.

If you get 450 for it and you're only into it for 270. Then you turn around and buy a new one for 670 then you're actually getting that new one for $490 out of pocket which is not that bad.
 

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
nice thought... but i bought it for 370.... he "will" give me 100 if i deiced to fix it up and keep it... I wouldn't take the 100 then sell.... im not that kinda guy....
 

njfl

X-H2
I don't think you have to do anything to the manifold. FYI, the top two bolts holes are open at the top as-received from Factory Pipe. As far as the enlarged holes go, you can use them like that, just make sure you have a decent washer to spread the load. I am currently running a 62T B-pipe manifold on my 61X-based exhaust. This means that my bolts are 8mm, but th eholes in my manifold are 10mm. The only thing that you will want to do is to line up the manifold from the inside (with the head off) when you install it.
 

njfl

X-H2
On the head pipe, if that is the middle screw in the first picture of post 2, then try giving it a few cycles of MAPP heat (available at Home Depot). Get the stainless to glow red and then cool a couple times. Then after it cools again I bet you will be able to put a Vise Grip on there and turn it out. Likewise on the bottom one if necessary.
 

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
I don't think you have to do anything to the manifold. FYI, the top two bolts holes are open at the top as-received from Factory Pipe. As far as the enlarged holes go, you can use them like that, just make sure you have a decent washer to spread the load. I am currently running a 62T B-pipe manifold on my 61X-based exhaust. This means that my bolts are 8mm, but th eholes in my manifold are 10mm. The only thing that you will want to do is to line up the manifold from the inside (with the head off) when you install it.

Sounds good too me too...

So here is where in at...
Manifold is good to go.....
chamber can be fixed.... ($60ish cut weld)
headpipe... turns out paradaddy includes all you need to put in oversize screws... ($35)

No one has commented on the relocated tap on top tho.... i dont know if its throw the water jacket.... anyone......
 

njfl

X-H2
On the headpipe, hook up a hose to the inlet (simulating the water coming from the head) and see if the bolt is adequately stopping water when fully closed, or see what it is doing, then go from there. One way or another, you will use the oversize Diddy-bolt in either place of the bolt (on the FP pad) or in the original location.
 

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
On the headpipe, hook up a hose to the inlet (simulating the water coming from the head) and see if the bolt is adequately stopping water when fully closed, or see what it is doing, then go from there. One way or another, you will use the oversize Diddy-bolt in either place of the bolt (on the FP pad) or in the original location.

I dont completely understand how these screws work... i tried that just now.... i can hear air leaking from somewhere????
 
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