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Your target rpm is set by exhaust port height and the tuned length of your pipe. Your impeller can be repitched for any final rpm. If I were to buy a new impeller, I would get a large hub Solas YQ 9-15 or 12-18, they are nearly identical. Most Blaster wet pipes were made to turn 6700 with a 61x...

Im sure you could find better acceleration with a flatter impeller. Make sure the top carb adjuster screws are set a little rich of peak rpm so it doesnt burn a piston.

Im sure this is not what you want to hear but......... You need to learn how to tune carbs or else pay someone else to do it. Asking here is useless because nobody can know exactly what your engine needs. You can learn a lot from tuning a cheap leaf blower first.

Thats an old race cylinder. They typically had high ports so your biggest problem will be poor throttle response with pump gas compression. A lot of these were set up for a longer stroke crank so you need to do some measuring.

The kawasaki 140 pump barely fits an FX1 hull. Yamaha pumps need a lot more hull work before they work right.

The large hub prevents water from reversing direction and getting under the blades near the center. Adding a larger bearing section behind the impeller prevents any air pocket from forming in this area of higher pressure/slower moving water. This is the reason white water affects small hub...

For some reason, people like to pay more for stuff thats in really bad shape.

And these guys are our "professionals".

I have made and tested various nozzle diameters on kawasaki 140 and Yamaha 144 pumps. My findings were, larger nozzles made noticeably better thrust until the ski was going fast. Smaller nozzles kept top speed better than large ones do. The short aftermarket cones didnt seem to hurt but were a...

Buying an old ski is a very poor risk unless you are able to take it apart and inspect everything first. You may get lucky and find everything still like new. Otherwise it will cost at least $2K and some time to get one back in shape. This is one instant where you can buy all the parts...

Some of us NERDS like to run our part throttle mixture a little cleaner than all you COOL kids do. A primer is usually a good thing to have either way.

Superjet driveshaft to midshaft engagement is too short. That is why we have so much trouble with water leaks and overall wear. I dont know why the aftermarket keeps producing the same old "bad" design. There is plenty of room to make the splines longer and set them deeper in the shaft. Yamaha...

Carbon is very noble and mainly damages aluminum. You just got a lot of water in the splines. There is a couple of O-rings in the mid that seal to the driveshaft. That is what ultimately failed.

The hood on older 440-550s didnt have the door. I imagine they thought the hood would raise up before the anything cracked since it was held down by a rubber band.

The smaller manifolds didnt cause any performance loss on smaller engines. They made the hole larger to lower the octane requirement. Kawasaki began doing this kind of mod on all their 750 couches by 1994.

Young people have not learned to respect their money. Thats why junk sells for so much.

Crypto is all speculation so learning technical analysis is probably the best way to trade it. Remember that it takes a while to develop yourself into a consistently profitable trader! Almost everyone that tries will blow their account very quickly.

A blowout door is like any other safety device, important only after the mishap. No jetskier will ever think about it until he blows a hood off at least 3-4 times. How many think of floatation until after they lose a ski?

A 650 nozzle would make more thrust. Those old props went fast but struggled more at low speed when compared to a swirl or concord.

Better for what??