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That is because you have a pair of 44s which are relatively large for your engine. Dual 38s would match the power to throttle opening better but you would lose a little punch. Since you have a tachometer, make sure the top screws are a little rich of peak rpm.

You probably wont like overly rich pilots if you are smoother with throttle inputs. Most riders fan the throttle 30 times a second which will make 1/4-1/2 throttle range feel leaner than it is if you hold it steady. The bottom screw is for idle only and the main jet/top screw is for full...

It is very difficult to cruise slow with big carbs and a good pipe. It will tend to be on or off. If you want it really smooth then install a set of OEM 38mm carbs and a stock Superjet pipe. You will lose some max pull and speed but the throttle will be very linear.

I lower the pipes water pressure with a pisser between headpipe and stinger, which also has a 1/8" restriction. I can tell how much pressure its running by how far it squirts.

I would leave the bottom hole fixed at .050" and tune the pump to match. Factory Pipe gave customers the option to make less power and strangely, everyone likes it..

You may not notice any difference unless you like to fan the throttle, even then there's not much on a three cyl. Single pipe triples have little if any exhaust tuning so their power is very smooth.

You can dump a lot of water into the stinger to keep the box cool and quiet.

Price will depend on how demanding the buyer is. The typical chop shop will probably pay more sight unseen because they don't care if the engine is full of rust. A knowledgeable individual will already know the value of the parts and want to see what is useable. This is because most PWC...

Sometimes having the pilot numbers larger than the main jet numbers can work. My experience is it makes 1/4 throttle overly rich on SBN 44/46 carbs. Strict freestyle riders or racers can gain response with huge pilots but it will really guzzle gas when you are forced to ride slow. I recommend...

Always start rich and lean to peak power. Try 140 mains and the top screws 2 turns open. Slowly work your way leaner until you achieve peak rpm or until response suffers. I expect 125 pilots would be close depending on pop-off pressure.

The small line is a bleeder that attached to the stock exhaust. Most people cap it without problems.

I don't do cold water anymore but Ive been out every weekend since the end of April., THIS year. This is the first generation I've ever known that likes to pay more for old stuff than it cost when new.

And the Superjet is better, right?

Your minimum octane will drop if you tune the top carb adjuster rich of peak rpm and make sure there is never any air in the fuel lines. Ignition timing is the other area that directly affects the engines minimum octane requirement.

Aluminum WILL crack unless the tank and mounting tabs are very heavy. A fiberglass tank sitting on the bottom can be much lighter and last forever.

Somewhere between 4k and 8k ready to ride. 1k-2k for bare hull/pole. Someone else may pay more, the market is small and fickle. I can say that people are paying more for a complete running ski than all its parts would cost.

Put some tubbies on it.

That may be a little too advanced.

How did they support that pipe since it has no chamber mount.

See what modifications the rules allow and spend money in that area. All it takes is spending a little more money than the guy you want to beat.