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Are you wanting to redesign the pipe, or make the porting and pump load work with it as is?

Then you should be working on your pump.

Like most things in life, these skis are very simple. They do require some maintenance and tuning to keep them from burning a piston, especially when modified. Don't feel too bad if you fail, most owners do.

They just need to be waterproof, if not they stop working after a couple of rides.

This is not a good application for an O-ring mod. A lot of material would need to be added to the mating surface and it would need to be machined flat. It may be worth it considering how jetskiers seem to think O-rings are cool.

If they ask $1500 for a nasty used B-pipe??? Scam? I think so.

The really sad part is that he could learn how to do all the work himself but won't. Im always surprised at how little interest people have in their more substantial hobbies.

The ROC has a lot of grip for turns and is easy to sub, if anyone does that anymore. The only thing it really needs is a handle mounted on that flat nose.

Back on Earth, why would anyone need MEK to make jetski parts?

MEK vanished from aviation 20years ago. The only time I see MEKP is with a can of body filler like Bondo. Aerospace uses higher temp epoxy products that will work up to 250F or 350F depending on where the part is located on the airframe. Cheap epoxy is good but gets soft as temperature rises...

How much was the hull shortened?

The biggest problem with plug color is being able to convert what you see into what the combustion temps are. You can stick a lot of pistons waiting for plugs to color up. It is very difficult to hurt an engine that is jetted rich of peak rpm. I suggest people start there. Using data from the...

That test will work for pilot jets but assumes the main circuit is perfect.

Few riders, if any, are making demands on hull makers. What gets produced will always be some large compromise in strength and weight and cost. I think hull builders could benefit a lot from some education of composite structure design. There is indeed a lot of crap hulls out there.

Raise the outside trailing edge of your impeller. That is where most of the engine load is located.

Any composite structure will last a very long time provided it was built properly and not overloaded. Any cracking shows weakness in that area. Knowing how to layup a hull and using quality material is the biggest problem with ski mfg. Plus riders never know the limits of how high they can...

Put the 44 back on it if you do any full throttle runs.

Sample photo?

More importantly, what RPM is it turning? If the exhaust port is low then it needs to spin at least 6800. If the port is high make it turn 7000. The main jet and top screw need to be slightly rich of peak rpm at full throttle. If this doesn't register then you are just throwing darts.

I would make the leading edge of the scoop 1/2" below hull contour. The scoop doesn't need to be as long as whats pictured. If you do leave it long then reflex the trailing edge a little.