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At that price he could add all the extra fees and it would still be a good deal. That was not an option so its very suspect.

They will last until the seals fail and the bearings rust. Some people can go 30 years and have no problem, others will destroy them in less than a season. An easy way to check is by sliding the engine forward and spinning the pump. It should be glass smooth and have some seal drag. Any noise...

We are already lighting the mixture with plug gaps down to .016". Any more energy allows for a wider gap, which is only necessary for mixtures that are much leaner than we can use. So what problem are you trying to solve??

Finding more power is easy, use an automotive ignition. This will allow the use of a larger plug gap although Im not sure it will help much with firing an overly rich mixture. The cons are more battery draw and less salt water tolerance.

A wise man once said, "If you buy garbage you own garbage".

Fiber gaskets can settle and cause a loss of tension. This happens mostly during the first few rides. You have to turn the nuts in order to check them so do that after each session until they stay tight.

That ski was swamped and it sat full of water for a while. A prime example of why old skis aren't worth nearly as much as people are paying.

In 1996 they had to start cleaning up emissions. Keihin leaned their existing carbs and used accelerator pumps then went to CV carbs. Mikuni introduced their I-body style carb.

Hmmm, Im hearing many say primers suck because their sled doesnt have them. Are primers better because my airplane does have one? As far as standup jetskis go, primers make my starters last a long time. I knew one rider who kept his chokes and always had to do a lot more cranking.

A better question may be "Why do our cheap primers go bad every year"?

Its very difficult to talk about the differences, mainly because few ever spent much time modifying and riding all those classics. Plus the ones who were there and did spend a lot of time/money on them are old guys now. I have a 650sx that is as good as it ever was. Its still fun but feels like...

So SBT, whats your failure rate? "We won't tell you but we do offer a one year warranty". To be fair, anyone who can destroy an original OEM will make short work of any replacement.

The engine shakes a lot so there will always be some movement between the two shafts. Any binding seems to make it wear more. The real problem has a simple solution that very few riders are willing to address. The midshaft must be removed, cleaned, and lubed every time the pump is removed. The...

Every single SBT engine could quickly fail and they would still be the largest supplier just because of price. I have come across some SBT cranks that lasted a while but their quality is still garbage. OEM is only slightly better.

Kawasakis failure mode is often a broken rod.

Ive noticed whenever there is a displacement limit and when a tuned pipe is used they like the strokes at or longer than the bore size. I have also noticed much shorter strokes being selected whenever a pipe is impractical, and when the main priority is low weight. You will never see a long...

Why is that?

The engine fitment will be easy after you made a 144-155 pump to fit. None of our engines make enough power without a good pipe so solving that problem is your second highest priority after the pump. Rotax 720 and 787 engines aren't ideal for standup use. You'll need to adapt a forward facing...

Any American doing the same work in the 1950s would have been considered very talented. From what Ive seen, few jetskiers can match this guys craftsmanship.

The FX1 is a slippery hull with a horrible pump. They are much more popular than they should be. If you like riding an FX1 then a 750sx would be heavenly.