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Typically a Worx 201 is a good deep grate. No need for an aftermarket plate since most riders just shorten their stock one.

The only difference is the length at the rear end. A race boat needs to be as long as possible to prevent porpoising and a freestyle boat needs to be short. Your size and riding conditions will determine how short you can go. Engine and pump will be maximized for response. instead of peak...

Oh its a JS hull. I would make the inlet longer with a large radius.

Kawasakis stock pipe has a little bit of tuning, I could not feel much in the Yamaha. Tuned pipes need some level of back pressure. Untuned exhausts lose power with any back pressure. A manufacturer can make products that hurt performance and people would still buy it.

I know that 750-800s have 76-80mm metal nozzles, they are the same casting so the smaller one can be bored. Plastic 650sx nozzles are 82. X2s had plastic nozzles and there are an early and late style, havn't measured those. I always lost acceleration whenever I tried a 750 nozzle, regardless of...

For racing, 80mm nozzles seem to hold high speed a little better than larger ones do. A stock 650 or one of those 84mm aftermarket nozzles will provide noticeably better acceleration with minimal rpm rise.

Mount a 3 inch pipe on top of your pole and connect the exhaust to it. A small megaphone attached near the pad should satisfy your need for noise! If not then delete the muffler and try again.

There is no objective data in the jetski world. Very few owners know what their skis weigh even though they own bathroom scales. How can anyone with no knowledge or basic instruments determine their skis state of tune?

A large hub impeller pitched properly will provide most of the gain. A 12 vane stator will help a little more, especially with bigger engines. Start with the impeller, it will work well with the stock pump.

We use popoff pressure as an easy way to check and adjust the main needle and seat. This pressure as a tuning tool is a little misleading though. The pressure on the pump side ranges from slightly negative up to 6 psi. The tank pressure variance will add to or subtract from that number. This is...

On a stock pump FX-1, I would install a 62T cylinder and get the rpm up. A single 44 is fine on the 61X case, It provides a lot of feedback while you are learning how everything works.

Im thinking that a 2mm larger throttle plate and "maybe" an additional pilot hole would make the I-body perfect. I may do it for myself but the whole aftermarket carb infrastructure is built around SBNs. I still like Keihin CDKs.

Mikuni I-body carbs were designed specifically to run leaner. Its easy to overdo it by freeing up airflow above them.

They were trying to make the part throttle mixture as lean as possible for emissions. It takes an overly rich pilot and popoff for the best throttle response, thats why we make the engines fourcycle a lot at low throttle..

Coffmans ruined all their watercraft pipes when they tried to stay profitable in a declining market. Their original designs were much more durable.

Was that the version with a one piece chamber? If so, it needs to fit perfectly and all hardware must be tight.

The Coffmans 750 manifold had 4 bolts, most aftermarket wet pipes used 3 bolt 650 manifolds.

Add up all the parts there and you would have $6-7k in an OEM hull. How much do you like Superjets?

Most of these old skis have been owned or operated by young men... Never pay more than all the large pieces are selling for.

Yes the Kawasaki siphon is slow but faster than any Yamaha siphon. Usually a sub will take 10 minutes or more for the siphon to crear and a bilge pump takes around 1 minute. The original 750sx had an airbox that protected the intake very well. All their twin carb boxes are not up to the task...