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I recently disassembled a 91 650sx that still had good crank seals, then i did a 94 750sx that had seals that were hard and cracked. I think the time has come where old skis need better owners than they got in the past. I think older guys will need to take an interest in this hobby first since...

I use a piece of steel bar stock mounted in a vise.

Its not a question of one or two lines, its can your engine get enough water. Make sure you have a passage at least 8mm or 5/16" from the pump to the engine. A single 7mm passage may work but is marginal.

Many auto punches will jump off the mark so be sure about your tools. Most riders will make a mess of peening screws because they won't spend the time fabricating a way to back up their hammer. Generally speaking, the only thing worse than worn out OEM parts are ones the owner tried to repair.

The bottom screw is for idle only, the top screw is for full throttle only. The idle mixture is easy to set, just start it out of the water and turn it in until the engine races then open it just enough to slow it down. They seldom end up over 2 turn out. The top screw is tuned at full speed...

The 650 needs a lot of mods before it becomes worth riding. Yes, a larger carb is one of them however, that is not his problem. The problem now is that a consumer mindset does not work so well when skis are no longer being produced in mass quantity. Now you have to overhaul it before its even...

I just rode a square nose and a 650sx last weekend. The Superjet is a lot easier to ride. The Kawasaki got better with ride time, it requires you to lean first then turn the bars.

A lot of parts are past their expiration date, the ski is over 30 years old!. It needs an overhaul.

The pipe is providing all the power. The carbs are too big but okay if you can keep them tuned.

Looks like a reverse nozzle turned upside down. I think its value would be very limited unless you had big waves to get you high enough for a flip. Then the ski would likely break

The pressure on the front side of the blades need to be as high as possible in order to make the most thrust. The only way to do this at low hull speed is with large inlets and low pitched impellers. Low pitch is necessary to create a boundary layer over the front of the blades. Getting water...

He's got a 33 year old ski that needs an overhaul and all anyone here can say is "stick a big carb on it". Yeeeeee Haaaaaa1

II have not found an epoxy that will exothem if the layers are thin, around .125" or less. Carpet or foam is usually best to protect a hull because it wont scuff as bad when a little sand is present. A harder plastic must be perfectly clean.

The number one problem with these skis is that they aren't made anymore and they are getting more difficult to find. How long do you plan to stay with this hobby? Whats is your annual budget? If you are in it for a while then the ski it may be worth saving. Most of the parts will fit newer...

The hood base is right next to the carb. Any water in the hull will be funneled directly into any aftermarket flame arrestor. You can install tha stock F/A or make a guard for the K&N. As far as the foam goes, I like to drill some small holes and suck it dry with a vacuum pump. Most riders like...

How way better is it??

Make sure the wires on the cdi that connected to the thermosensor are not bare.

All Kawasaki 650s have short splines and they didn't get good impeller seals until the end of production. Few people knew how to align pumps and make seals work when an aftermarket impeller was installed. It is very rare to see good 650 splines today. 650sx owners are in luck because the...

Remember this whole industry is about fleecing a kid as he passes through the sport. The small hub and large hub Solas Concords work very well once they have been bent to achieve 7000+ rpm. Cones and cutbacks are mainly ways for the pump guys to make more money.

Dont forget the crankshaft, if its rusty then replace it.