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The midshaft seals leak and the bearing will rust. Plus dirt always gets on the splines when the pump is removed. Ever wonder why so many riders have midshaft problems?

Any derelict ski will always need a lot of work. Don't pay more than you could easily get for the large parts or you will end up with too much money in it.

5200 is more of a sealant. You need to remove the bad inserts and fill that area with a thickened epoxy. Then tap and install new threaded inserts, glue them in by adding a little epoxy on the threads. The pump shoe will be more tedious since the old one is harder to remove and the new one...

You have a good starting point. I know this is foreign to the jetski crowd but first, fix everything that is broken! From there you can upgrade everything incrementally, that is if you want to stick with the hobby.

The little Yamahas are a compact design to begin with. Longer strokes start outgrowing the stock cylinder very fast. An aftermarket cylinder with longer rods can bring the engine back to more ideal configuration.

It may still be viable with dealers ability to get anyone financed. I wonder about the buyers demographic, I imagine its noobs and old fat guys.

I can make any ski do this, or not. Set the idle mixture and speed out of the water. Use the lower mixture screw to find peak rpm then open it to slow the engine down.

It wont move once the coupler is tight, The seals can wear grooves in collar so thats the main consideration. I would use whatever sealant that was used on the case.

Let them assemble the crank then install the collar with a tiny bit of sealant.

It would be hard to sell a +1 or +2 stroker even though it would be less work and probably run better than a +4 or +5 with a stock rod. It may be better to just improve B-pipe chambers and sell them with fuel tanks that allow for that. Few customers understand the fine details, size is a much...

Look up the parts catalog at any online dealer. I always used Tigershark 640 stators to replace bad 750 units since I could find them in perfect condition for $30 on ebay.

Get the pistons first and send them with the cylinder to be bored.

Unless you are running a stock head with stock timing, always always always make sure the top screws are adjusted at the rich side or peak rpm! Any change to anything CAN effect this critical setting.

The B-pipe was designed for a stock muffler, what are you worried about?. The top carb adjuster screws should always be rechecked with a tachometer after any change is made.

You can get away with more timing and compression if the carbs are set rich of peak power. You can still burn a piston with less timing and compression if the carbs are set a little lean of peak power. Freestyle guys never deal with long full throttle runs so their compression and timing...

Check your top speed rpm, make sure the timing is retarded enough at whatever its turning.

Your budget is probably too limited for this hobby. The only way a used engine is a good deal is if it has no corrosion inside. These can be difficult to find now.

If it doesn't have foam stashed everywhere it will go to the bottom quick. I have watched Stock Kawasakis and Superjets lose their hoods and the back of the hull remained out of the water. I know old X2s rely on their hood foam, lose the hood and they will go to the bottom. All the aftermarket...

All dry pipes make the power either on or off. Oversized carbs make it even more so. If you can't handle the beast then drop back down to stock class until you can.

A very short pole will work if you never plane the hull and just mush around like flatwater guys. This requires a lot of power since all the ski wants to do is go up and flip. A longer rideplate is often needed for faster cruising on short hulls. Setting the nozzle or trim a little negative...