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Cranking with a low battery can cause the solenoid to arc and weld itself closed. Do like others said above and disconnect the start switch and see if it starts to crank when you connect the battery. If so replace the solenoid and make sure the E box is dry.

How much does it weigh, and have you compared its weight with a stock yamaha flywheel? It looks like it has charging magnets but I do not see a trigger magnet like the TL flywheels.

I guess if you let the average joe with a couch that routinely lets the battery go down to zero due to parasitic loads from those seadoo ignition systems you will have battery issues. Check out this article from the Odyssey website about Seadoo short battery life...

Get one of these and be done for a few years. http://www.jetworks.net/kb35xc.htm Pick batteries at the bottom of the page. The direct link does not work.

The website has always described them as AGM. That is strange, I guess if you get down to it they do use lead plates and the acid is absorbed into the glass mat, so technically it is a lead acid but not a wet cell conventional. Check it out here...

I thought they were AGM, No? I agree that they have been sh***ty lately.

No, if it won't take a charge then it is probably toast. The "AGM" or Absorbed Glass Mat technology that most call dry cell is very sensitive to how you charge it. If you have any type of AGM battery you need to get a temperature compensated charger that has a specific AGM setting. If you try to...

Dooh, I did not even notice that your sig said Georgia. You are a brave man to sport some white turf around that nasty stuff. We have it in spots here in middle TN and I remember trashing some great MX clothing back in the day when I was into the dirt bikes.

http://www.pro-tecperformance.com/proshop.htm Look in the crankshaft services section. I had one done by them back in 95 and I still use it to this day. No problems whatsoever, they take about .6 pounds off if I remember correctly.

Look on the intake side in between the cylinders and see if there is a mark there. If 61x you have a 701 cylinder with the larger ports & good timing, I don't remember what the stock 650 mark reads. I would say you probably have a 650 since that is definitely a 650 FP chamber and you have 650...

The white turf looks pimp, just be sure and never go to Georgia and ride anywhere near that nasty red clay. It will stain it and never come clean.

Post up some pics of the rest of the factory pipe also. Are you sure it was a 650 pipe? What year is the hull? Look at the last two digits of the Hull ID plate on the top of the exh side gunwale.

The blue sock as you call is treated with silicone or something similar to make it repel water. This seems to wear off after a while and is not as effective. I personally do not like those covers as they can be restrictive and make the boat run rich. You might try to find a stock Yamaha F/A from...

It might not be water ingestion, I have found that the 44 & 46 carbs tend to go rich if you lean hard or throw the boat to the carb side. I have noticed this problem for years and have noticed that since I installed my Full specs it does seem to have that problem any longer. I think it has...

I used the 3/16 standard under pad and some closed cell foam blocks on each side to fill in the recesses where the brass blocks are.

It does not matter how rounder it is. Contact cement & hydroturf mold well if you use the cement properly and some heat to mold the turf. Just trim & sand the under padding to hide the imperfections of the plastic frame and lay the turf atop that and trim it out. Viola, you are done.

Prolly lose a cc or two by putting the short plugs in the AM head. I ran across a guy running short plugs in an AM head the other day, we replaced them with the long reach ES units and he said it ran better.

Jethro's cipherin sez nawt + nawt = nawt..:bad3:

I you just buy the wire be sure and get the tinned copper like crammit said. It will resist corrosion and last a whole lot longer than bare copper in a marine app. If you have to attach your own terminal ends then also get tinned terminals and solder them on the wire. This set up will last as...

Looks like those pistons were in an engine that went through some tough times. They appear pretty worn and the bent skirt is no good. It also looks like someone sanded the top of the piston to reduce the pitting caused by whatever was bouncing around in there. I would send them back for a refund...