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Nick, I shortened the rear of my hull by about 2" and I am simply amazed at the difference it has made to handling - the boat rides better in every way, including keeping the nose much higher out of the water. That's not to say that it feels like it's riding nose high now - it doesn't, but it...

No, don't thicken for glasswork - use just as it is once you've mixed it. The reason to thicken it for bonding the footholds is so that it doesn't run out of the gap between the holds and the hull before it cures. There's no danger of that when laying fiberglass since the cloth/mat holds it in...

And check the plug caps and wires. The ends of the wires can get very corroded and the strands just break apart. New plug caps (MSD) and chopping the wires back till you find good copper might help a lot.

Argh! Sorry I couldn't make it - sounds like you guys had a great time. Big stress here on the job front - news coming soon I hope, but in the meantime life is a little crazy with no time for play....

That's why I never ride anything I couldn't afford to buy - you know you'll want one if you try one!!

I see what you mean. The cable pull will be 1/2 regardless: 2:1 ratio = half pull. But the nozzle deflection depends on the fulcrum point, so the deflection indeed depends on the roller diameter and will always be less than half the original pull (except for an infinitely small roller!)

It will be 1/2 the pull for any diameter that doesn't actually interfere with the mounting bracket.

Just go to the cove so you have some beach and a nice spot to ride without having to worry about too much boat traffic. It's a straight shot out to the main channel for some BFC chasing, but you'd better keep your eyes on stalks out there to stay safe.

The price of any item is determined by people's willingness to pay that price, and nothing else. It has no bearing on the intrinsic value of the item, only the perceived value of that item to the purchaser. I agree that the prices are high, but they will stay that way if people pay them - and...

That was when I said to Suzi "we're going to lake Lanier for the weekend" and she said "why?" so I said "to hook up with some guys I met on the internet." She looked at me a little strangely, but she came anyway...!

Haha! Yes, rivets are a good spot to leak. You need to fill the center with 5200 once you have riveted anything to the hull (like exhaust outlet, hull ID plate) - otherwise they are just little holes through your hull. I think you can also buy sealed rivets, but it's simple just to fill them.

Guys - that IS a ride. It's how it used to be and should be for lots of local rides: you just show up, ride together and hang out. It's how all this started.

Awesome! Doesn't it feel great when you wake up and the pain is gone?! I couldn't piss lying down either - stupid anesthetic!

Here you go:

No problem. Make sure the resin is nice and thick to bond them in (it takes a surprising amount of cabosil to achieve that - it needs to be like peanut butter ) and apply liberally around the seem. You want to see it oozing out everywhere when you tighten the screws down. Then wipe the excess...

You need some cabosil to thicken the resin, some screws or rivets to clamp the holds down while the resin cures (you can leave those in or take them out - doesn't matter), some 8oz cloth to reinforce over the seems, and 4lb foam to fill. You might want to think about reinforcing the tray between...

If it's filling that fast then you either have a very big hull leak or a waterline is detached/split. For the former do what Cliff said and fill the hull to just above the bondline - not so full you risk water getting into the carbs (everything else will be fine). You should see water gushing...

It's normal for them to be pretty tight when everything is new and you haven't run it yet. The only thing that can sometimes happen is that the rear of the shaft can catch on the cone. Turn it with the cone installed and without - if it feels the same then you're good. If it is stiffer with the...

Nonono! Lot's of things thicken epoxy for sure, but many weaken it. There are thickeners called "fairing" thickeners which leave an easily sandable mixture for surface finishing. For footholds you need a thickener that adds strength like cabosil, not powder or microballoons or anything like that.

I have XFT holds which are enclosed over the front half of your foot. They are the sh*t!! They hold you in very securely and very comfortably, and your feet pop right out when you wreck. You can also put a toe in when riding surf stance since only the front half is enclosed. They are hands down...