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Windex all around the coupler, get the bottom in first, and then work the top of the coupler over the lip. Sometimes you need to help with fingers or a screwdriver to get the top situated with a new coupler. An old coupler will slide right on. I can do mine in about 30s. Also, see the post above...

Yup - piece of cake with some lube. You can either put the headpipe on and then squeeze the chamber in there, or an easier way is to insert the chamber and attach the front coupler and then ease the headpipe into the rear coupler and bolt it down. Much easier to get the chamber situated that way.

BTW, if you ask Chuck at XScream he'll tell you to run a limited even on a larger motor. So, limited all the way for me, and remember that Windex is your friend when you come to install it!

I'm sad to say that I won't be able to make it either. Some crazy stuff going on at work at the moment which has me working 13 or 14 hour days, and weekends appear to be a thing if the past. Sucks.

I know exactly how that feels....

Super lean rear cylinder that got worse no matter what you did? I'm thinking rear crankshaft seal.

I think he means that the prop is extending past the end of the wear ring and that the blades are therefore catching on the stator vanes. Dremmick, if you have do the original spacer in there then it sounds like you need a thicker spacer. Hit up Dave at Impros and see if he can help you out.

I got a set of footholds about a month ago from Sergio without any problems.

Yup. It's actually an extremely common coil fault in general - I've had the same happen on a car, mower, ski....

That's blatant crabism and I won't stand for it!

I have some brand new REVs if you want them. PM me.

Here's my 822cc 8mm PV XS brap-monster!!

I like Matt's way of pulling power and ground from the e-box through the temp sensor grommet. I just did that on mine and it makes for a very clean installation. MUCH better than running power from the battery.

The modding has begun!! Welcome to envy and debt....

The other way to make a waterproof joint is to use a simple crimp butt connector, but fill it with silicon sealant first. Fill it, insert wires, crimp and allow to cure for a nice watertight connection.

Order two! Always carry a spare.

It's not a bad thing to have to pull the hood off regularly. You need to be pulling the hood off when you're done riding in any case to let the engine bay dry out properly and to alleviate pressure on your hood seal. I always like to see inside my engine compartment before I ride each time too -...