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Good tip on the WD40 BK - saves a lot of finger clean-up afterwords!!

Make sure the rear of the shaft is not rubbing on the cone too. Just pull the cone off and see if it spins more freely. If so you need to knock the shaft forward a little more to get it seated properly.

I'm sorry I missed it! Had to work yesterday morning, but at least I made it to the lake for a bit in the afternoon. Sounds like you guys had a great time!

Well, it didn't have salt in it, but fresh? Not so much...!

I was practicing backflips today off the boat wake (well, practicing landing on my head anyway...). One time my ski was upside down, so I spun it over and just as the water hit the bilge pump i was taking a breath. The bilge pump outlet spewed lake water at 500gph straight into my mouth - I...

Sounds like you already did - let the poor guy keep his remaining fingers! :dance:

Dual 45. But no rush - I don't need it right away.

We all know Becky did that to you...! Let us know when you get back in the shop - I'd like to get a flush kit from you. Hope your finger heals OK.

Then your not trying hard enough :splatt:

I don't think that's doing you much good. The idea is to absorb shock, and for that you need a decent thickness of fairly soft rubber. I think a piece of 25mm underpad is the least you want to use if it's going to be effective.

WTF?!!! Seriously? Are those the adamantium plugs?

Ditto on the 25mm underpad. Put a layer of turf over the top to stop it from getting snagged.

That question males more sense :cool2: Even with a pad my Wammer hood has stress cracks around the area the poles impacts (using the thick HT pad). Several people run a pad on the pole and on the hood, so the pads impact each other. I think this helps quite a bit.

The pole pad has two main functions: protecting the cables where they com out of the pole from you, and protecting you from the top of the pole! Stock pole pads tend to have a lot of padding and be heavy, so people change them for aftermarket versions which tend just to get turfed. They are a...

Suzi, I fixed your typo for you :newangel:

Honestly, even if you had to drop another $2k in it to get it back up to snuff I think you'd be getting a pretty good deal. For comparison, I just rebuilt my superjet - fixed cracks, reinforced, replaced a bunch of broken stuff, added trim, and dropped in an Xscream motor and I'm out nearly $8k...

electrical problems suck! I once had a bad start/stop switch, a broken wire AND a bad relay - hat one took a while to track down!! The wire was intermittent, which was a bitch to diagnose.

You're making life a little hard for yourself here. Did you do the red/brown jumper test like Matt suggested? Work from that point in rather than the solenoid out. It's very common for the wires to break where the enter the e-box: they flex there and work-harden, which makes them brittle and...

Do you think so? It seemed like I had more room with the ribs removed. Maybe the PV spacer is the thing that made the difference.

That's the trouble with a superjet - not much room to twist.